Tinello

A welcome addition to Pimlico's rather staid dining scene, Tinello is the brainchild of chef Federico Sali (previously head chef at Locanda Locatelli) and his brother Max (who was Giorgio Locatelli's sommelier). The menu, which includes many antipasti and 'small eats', is both fun and alluring and reflects the cuisine of the brothers' native Tuscany.

Witness a traditional Tuscan crostini of toasted bread topped with coarse chicken liver pâté and freshly grated truffle. Another rustic dish taken upmarket was nettle pappardelle served with duck ragu. Also on the pasta list: ingredient of the moment, 'nduja (a spreadable spicy pork sausage from Calabria), melted into a fresh tomato sauce for cloaking tubular mezzi paccheri pasta and topped with burrata cheese. Cornish fish is showcased in the secondi; we chose roast fillet of brill with clams and borlotti beans, but could have had chargrilled mackerel with fennel, pink grapefruit and rocket, or lemon sole with aubergines and salsa verde.

Decor is on the sombre side (dangling cords, dark mirrors, steampunk lighting), but staff did a good job of making us feel welcome, aided by a wine list that starts at £2.50 a glass. Nevertheless, the expertly chosen, mainly Italian bottles do quickly reach the £25-plus bracket.