Wright Brothers Soho

Wright Bros may have started in a cramped corner of Borough Market, but this new branch sprawls over three floors, from Kingly Street to the heart of the Kingly Court retail development off Carnaby Street. You'll find several outdoor benches punctuated with Wrights' trademark beer barrels; inside, there's diner-style bar seating, and more traditional restaurant tables both upstairs (quieter) and down (lively), by the gleaming open kitchen.

On our first visit, the brown shrimps, scallops, and sardines on toast were the best catches. Ox cheek, ale and oyster pie, served in a cast-iron dish with two oysters on the side for diners to plop into the pie and cook last-minute, featured superb pastry and full-flavoured sauce - but was excessively priced at £16.50. Indeed, given the need for side veg (green beans £4), and wines starting at £20 a bottle (try the beers instead), it all seems a bit steep.

Roast pollack with morcilla and potatoes (a blackboard special on another visit) could have been more generous. Better was the friendly waitress's recommendation of juicy deep-fried oysters served with lush tarragon mayonnaise, and the elegant understatement of caramel cream with pistachio biscotti (though the portion was tiny). Still, it's pitched right for the post-work crowd, and end-of-week evenings get very busy.