Delhi Grill

On the former site of Rooburoo, Delhi Grill is a family concern started by brothers Aman and Preet Grewal. They've selected their relatives' best recipes for a short, focused menu in homage to India's dhaba (roadside canteens).

Dishes are split equally between items from the tandoor and those from the pot, but look to the specials board before ordering - August proffered dhal gosht, aloo puri and vegetable pakora; if available, the on-the-bone goat curry is a must, as is rajmah, a Punjabi dish of kidney beans.

We've generally found most satisfaction from the slow-cooked sauce dishes, but a 'Delhi Grill' for two at just £7.50 will see off any cravings for meat - it includes lamb chops, chicken tikkas and punchy seekh kebabs. The own-made, silky-smooth beetroot chutney has become something of a signature.

On our most recent visit, service was sweet but slow and as the room filled up, we became more and more frustrated: it takes more than enthusiasm and a good idea to move from daytime roti stall to proper restaurant, no matter how casual. But we like this spot. The cooking is great and the decor - in which old Indian newspapers serve as wallpaper alongside cheerful blue paint - is fun.