Kerbisher & Malt

A modern, maritime-themed café and takeaway, Kerbisher & Malt is furnished with sleek white tiles, monochrome photos and a chunky communal table. While waiting for your order, watch behind-the-scenes kitchen action on the flatscreen TV.

The menu offers the usual hearty staples, including fish that tick some ecological boxes (pollock and coley, as recommended by the Marine Stewardship Council). Mushy peas, big fat gherkins, and fennel and dill salad are among the classic extras. Go for whitebait, fish cakes, fried squid or a fishfinger butty, or sample batter-free daily specials such as garlicky, Mediterranean-style langoustines.

Coley fillet, encased in light, crunchy golden batter, was beautifully succulent, as was a perfectly grilled chunk of pollack. We weren't bowled over by the chips, however, which, though crisp in texture and fluffy inside, seemed over-fried. Tartare sauce was let down by a raw mustardy flavour and a shortfall of gherkins and herbs, but the onion rings were good.

Service was spot-on: attentive and enthused. Judging by the evening queues, K&M is just what W6 has been crying out for.