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Bread Street Kitchen

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One New Change, 10 Bread Street, EC4M 9AB Full details & map

Restaurants & cafés: British

 
© Rob Greig

Time Out says   6 Users say 3/5 Rate it

Posted: Sep 29 2011

You may have passed through Heathrow Terminal 5, and glimpsed - or eaten at - Plane Food, a brasserie run by Gordon Ramsay Holdings. It's affordable, democratically priced and no-nonsense, with speedy service. Plane Food seems to have been an experiment that partly inspired Ramsay's Bread Street Kitchen.

During the daytime, this latest City restaurant from the Ramsay stable resembles a Café Pasta inside a Westfield, with its vast size, unpleasant din, ugly ceiling and white tiled walls. But as night falls, the lights dim and candles appear; booth curtains are drawn. And Bread Street Kitchen successfully makes the transition from daytime canteen for City workers to a far more appealing destination restaurant.

There's nothing too fancy on the menu that the kitchen can't knock out quickly, but there's also enough of interest to keep people coming back for more. A sizeable 'raw bar' proffers ceviches, carpaccios and that suburban favourite, the prawn cocktail.

But they don't make prawn cocktails like this in Essex: king crab instead of prawn, flavourful lettuce instead of tasteless Iceberg with a piquant dressing of pink peppercorns.

For those who prefer their food to squeal, pig's head is one of the blokier options. Served as croquettes, these finger-sized bites had the simple appeal of slow-cooked pork in a crisp case, served with a variation on sauce gribiche - this one a smooth mayonnaise with tiny dice of green chilli replacing the capers.

The burger, at £11.50, seems typical of the demographic this Gordon Ramsay restaurant is aimed at: food loving, but not poncey. The bun is made from shiny, brioche-style bread - slightly too sweet and pappy for our tastes, but it looked pretty impressive. The meat patty uses short rib beef, with a molten topping of a local cheese made in a Bermondsey railway arch.

A decent enough burger, though we'd quibble over details such as the tasteless, bright-red coulis spread on the flat face of the bun top. The burger was upstaged by the chips: £3.50 extra, but worth it to experience the crisp, salted exterior and firm, flavourful potato within.

We visited in the first week, when service (a discretionary 12.5 per cent extra) inevitably resembled a 'before' on 'Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares', but that's only to be expected. Some aspects of it were comical enough to share here. Enquiring after our our (delayed) order of bread and butter pudding - good, though not £8 good - our waiter brought us another round of bread and butter, as if we were new arrivals just plonked down at the table.

The obvious comparison to this joint is with Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa restaurant, as the two face each other across the One New Change concourse. But despite being a year late, and reportedly costing £5 million, my money's on the Ramsay operation being the one which gets repeat custom. It's glam enough, and the food's good - BSK should have staying power, as long as Ramsay's troubled empire doesn't implode.

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Bread Street Kitchen details

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Address

Bread Street Kitchen

One New Change, 10 Bread Street EC4M 9AB

Transport St Paul's tube

Telephone

020 7592 1616

Bread Street Kitchen website

Breakfast served 7-11am Mon-Fri. Lunch served 11.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat. Dinner served 5.30-11pm Mon-Sat. Meals served 11am-8pm Sun

Main courses £12.50-£31. Meal for two with wine and service: around £110

Facilities

Babies and children welcome ( children's menu; crayons; highchairs ), Booking advisable

Bread Street Kitchen map

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Comments & ratings 3/5 (Average of 6 ratings)

By Angela - Feb 27 2012
4/5

Beautiful building!

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By MrNiceGuy - Dec 29 2011
1/5

Gruesome xperience. Salty, dry, unedible.
Dull, noisy, overpriced, overrated. Not even posh, just pointless.

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By Winnie - Dec 6 2011

If you want to have a nice and peaceful dinner then please do not go to this place; instead, if you want to have a bit of dramas with raw stake; bonds (2 fish bonds) in the fish fillet; water all over your nice suite, please, this is the best place where you could experience everything in one go! Gordon, do you want to bring hell kitchen live and experience in your own restaurant? Though I like their waitress the night, but the excuses that they gave are not acceptable. “If for other customers, we will just put the raw steak in the oven and bring it back again.” Well thanks for re-cook for me, but median raw became well-done? What could I say? “Sorry, but we could not guarantee that all the bonds could be removed from the fish fillets!” If you cannot, please let your customers know before they eat it. Otherwise, with Gordon’s name related with this restaurant, everyone will expect high standard food like he advices in all his TV programmes. So what if one customer got the fish bond down to the throat? That is not funny at all. Please if you want to be a celebrity chief restaurant, then be one with high standard. Btw, don’t keep silent when you spill water on your customers’ suits and hope that they will not notice. Come on Gordon, you could do better than this! Please learn from your mistake. Otherwise, say what you say to others in the programme when they do this!

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By Mario - Oct 17 2011
4/5

I would definitely dine at Bread Street Kitchen again. Staff were welcoming, food was delicious (recommend the venison and some sneaky macaroni and cheese on the side), and our waitress was very attentive and happy to offer her opinions and recommendations. Most importantly, the bread was good too..

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By Ant - Oct 17 2011

Service still terrible (15 Oct) and not funnily so - GR needs to sort the nightmare, because the food is ok (not much more) but the service is childish/amateur/useless

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By Hannah - Oct 17 2011

Had a lovely meal here, fantastic, stylish decor - it has a real buzz about it. The food was really good quality - i had the crab cocktail and then the venison - both delicious. I'm quite suprised by all the reviews commenting on the service as our waitress went out of her way to be helpful and recommend dishes to us and all the bar staff etc were really welcoming and friendly. I would definitely go back!

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By Simon - Oct 16 2011
2/5

Very very disappointed. Slow service. Nice menu but the food was really bad.

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By ben - Oct 1 2011

Gordan gordan gordan.Very disappointed. Made a reservation for 2pm on Thursday opening week. Sat at the bar for 1hr whilst my table was being prepared. Which i guess was fine as i was tucking away Peroni's.
The starters were awsome . Come to my main meal and the veal was supposed to be medium. Somebody was sat on the Goerge Foreman grill for to long. I ordered a side dish of handcut chips which never came out. After 15mins of waiting the waiter told me they were on there way, then he informed me the chip making machine was broken. So i gave up!! Then low and behold another waiter walks by with two cups of hand cut chips.! Is that the ultimate pi*s take or what.?
There was complimentry coffee at the end but all i wanted to do was just go . Wont be going back to this one!!!
. So i wont be going back..

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By Sam - Sep 29 2011
3/5

Lovely decor but let down by appallingly slow service. Menu was interesting and lots of dishes caught our eye, however most of them did not deliver. Charcuterie was still not mature enough to be have been served, crispy pigs head was an oily, glorified potato croquette, chilli mayo was just plain mayo that did not even taste home-made. Scallop though was cooked perfectly as was the seabass main. The poussin main was still bloody inside which was worrying. The waiter actually asked me "how would you like it cooked" when I ordered it which shows a startling lack of food awareness!! Drinks service was both in the bar & restaurant agonizingly slow. Nobody seemed to have a clear idea of what they should be doing. We ended up being served by the receptionist as by then we had waited 40mins just to get our pre-dinner drink and were about to give up. Maybe I just had too high an expectation of the evening but I thought GR's newest venture would be something to come out of the traps like a rocket! Will give it a few months to settle and try again....maybe

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By Richard Lester - Sep 28 2011
5/5

I was first on opening day for Breakfast and almost the last to leave when I returned for dinner so definitely had more of a feel for the overall Bread Street Kitchen experience than most,
With over 700 people booked for the first day I am glad I had the early day experience which would give a better idea how service would run under normal circumstances then what some other reviews have been based on during 'Rush Hour’ Evening with over 200 Customers eating at any one time including the usual first day river of papa'rat'zi reviewers and self-proclaimed ‘expert’ bloggers trying to make a name for themselves by trying to find criticism in every twisted perverse way they can whilst actually forgetting the food, Ambiance, Decor or the mostly good elements of service!
Ok Breakfast first which someone has done an amazing Job sourcing as is literally the best of everything-For those who have had the fortune of indulging in breakfast at Planefood at T5 you will know what I’m talking about - It’s the reason why since T5 has opened I have never taken a flight from any other terminal even if the cost of the flight was hundreds more! Service at breakfast was pretty much flawless considering 1st day a pretty mean feat with the place gradually filling.
Onto dinner and an amazing great Value menu, The dearest item for main is a Massive Rib eye steak at £29 on par with my favourite steak haunts Hawksmoor and Goodman the difference was around £10 behind the above mentioned on price and taste ahead of a certain ‘cooks’ restaurant opposite. Who is meant to pride himself on the ability to source and cook a steak correctly!
That was the most expensive item most were around the £15 mark my fiancée had the Sea Bass at £18 and my friend Gordon’s amazing Short Rib burger one of the best I have sampled and at £11 making his starter and main less than £20!!
Most of the starters are around £10, As you would expect from Ramsay establishment this gets you amazing fresh produce combined into a taste tantalising combination which excites and intrigues the palette. My choice was thinly sliced Lancashire beef, Barigoule vegetables, and quail’s eggs a true all I can say is organic orgasmic !
So to sum up Dinner at an average of around £30 for 2 courses you would be hard pushed to find such value in the surrounding area and the quality and taste combination’s just blow its competitors somewhere into the Thames!
Then there is the restaurant itself £5m to launch it’s for a reason, It simply is one of the most stunning sensational design in the city everything is reclaimed and extremely fun and funky I loved it. There are some great view points if you want to check out what’s going on and seating that a lot of thought went into so that big groups are cosy 2’s can be comfortable.

. To Sum up A fantastic team and the best freshest produce make Bread Street Kitchen a fantastic experience, Amazing Value and undoubtedly one of Gordon’s biggest Successes.

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By Simon - Sep 26 2011

Wrong order served and then waited 30 minutes for the bill. Eventually added it up myself and left the money. Food was okay but overall experience not good.

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