Androuet

This London outpost of Paris-based fromagerie extraordinaire Androuet is an implausibly chic cheese shop and bistro rolled into one. With its graceful chandeliers and tall mirrors, it is cosy and glamorous - despite the inevitable pong. Diners are surrounded by beautifully displayed goats', cows' and sheep's cheeses - mostly from France and Britain, with a few Italian formaggi too.

The menu reads like an ode to what James Joyce referred to as 'the corpse of milk'. The house specialities are raclette and fondue and, of the latter, there are two sorts - the traditional Comté and emmental combo or a daily changing special blend (exemplary on our visit) served with charcuterie, cornichons and good bread for scooping up the golden, molten cheese.

If you don't fancy a full meal, there's a build-your-own-cheeseboard option, excellent charcuterie, including a toothsome game terrine with pistachio, plus a selection of salads, starters and mains in which cheese has either star billing or a key support role. There's a cracking wine list, too, with food-friendly bottles from top producers, including some biodynamic and 'natural' wines - all, like the cheeses, available to purchase and take away. Heaven on earth for cheese fiends.