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10 Greek Street

10 Greek Street, W1D 4DH Full details & map

Restaurants & cafés: Modern European

Time Out says 16 Users say 5/5 Rate it

By Guy Dimond Posted: Feb 21 2012

Anyone who familiar with the McDonald's model will recognise the recession-busting restaurant trend of the moment - and I don't mean burgers, or 'small plates'. I mean no-bookings restaurants - where you show up and wait for a table.

Restaurateurs have realised they can follow the lead of the fast food chains, and maximise their table-turning and profits with no reservations, while sacrificing the convenience of the dining public. Yet, amazingly, there seems to be no end of people who are willing to queue for an hour or more in a crowded doorway, and then part with £40 a head for the privilege. Trend-hoppers such as Burger & Lobster, Meat Liquor and Pizarro, to name just a few, all have unfeasibly long lines.

10 Greek Street at first appears to be yet another trendy, no-bookings restaurant in the same mould as, say, Spuntino or Ducksoup. Some walls are white-tiled; the light fittings are spare; the overall look is spartan, slightly industrial, yet stylishly understated. You can book for lunch, but for dinner, reservations are not taken.

The co-owner is also the chef, Cameron Emirali, formerly of the Wapping Project. His daily changing Modern European menu is chalked on two facing blackboards. On a lunch visit, the starter of razor clams - slightly overcooked -were served with warm chorizo to give them a bit more kick; pork loin was simply roasted then served with a flavoursome gravy and some veg, the highlight being crisp crackling, used as a garnish. Both were good, but not worth crossing town for.

Returning for dinner, this attractions of the place become clearer. The place has a low-lit ambience that makes Soho strollers stop and stare through the plate-glass windows. Service was notably charming - you really need this when customers are being asked to wait.

Co-owner and manager Luke Wilson is a wine enthusiast, and it shows. There are around a dozen choices of excellent and unusual wines by the small (125ml) glass or half-bottle carafe. Blaufränkisch is an Austrian grape that makes a distinctively cool-climate red; this 2009 one from Burgenland's top winery, J Heinrich, is great value at £4 a glass. Also by the glass are a Mount Difficulty pinot gris from Central Otaga in New Zealand, a furmint from Hungary, and plenty of other wines that are as simple as ABC (Anything But Chardonnay).

The cooking was also up a notch. We liked the smoked eel starter, served with a slightly sweet horseradish sauce and beetroot; and carved Gressingham duck breast was correctly pink and tender, served with pancetta. Smoked haddock pie reminded us of old-style pub grub a little too much - the pastry top, the uniformity of mushy textures. But the puddings were nicely rendered: a clementine brûlée with a chewy sugar lid, and a wintery almond and quince tart.

10 Greek Street is popular with men in beards and radiant young media types who still have a bit of money in their pockets, and don't mind standing around in a draughty doorway. It's good to see a new Soho restaurant in such rude health - and it might even be worth waiting for.

Tags: European, Modern European, Central, Soho

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10 Greek Street details

Address

10 Greek Street

10 Greek Street W1D 4DH

Transport Tottenham Court Road tube

Telephone

020 7734 4677

10 Greek Street website

Open noon-11.30pm Mon-Sat. Lunch noon-3pm. Dinner 5.30pm-11pm

Meal for two with drinks and service: around £75

10 Greek Street map

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Comments & ratings 5/5 (Average of 16 ratings)

By gazza - Mar 26 2012

5/5

Quite simply phenomenal. The wine list is captivating, beautifully niche and current and the food is never less than one million percent amazing. Highly recommended by my good self who has now eaten there 20 plus times. GO!!

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By Katie and Michael - Mar 3 2012

What a fun and delicious night we had here. Well recommend the Smoked Trout starter and delicious wine. do get your names on the list asap when you get to the area. Cant wait to be back.

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By Michael and Katie - Mar 2 2012

We ate there last Friday, the food and the service was amazing smoked trout starter was heavenly, lamb shank and belly of pork was divine. Drop by to register for a table early. Great intimate atmosphere love it!

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By Rich - Feb 29 2012

5/5

Brillinat. Service was sublime, food was delicious and the wine list was top notch. Can't wait to go back!

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By Chrystal - Feb 20 2012

5/5

Fab atmosphere, lovely staff, cool setting and delcious food. The wild seabass was outta this world.

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By MCL - Feb 17 2012

5/5

This is simply a fantastic restaurant. I've been hoping for ages that someone would open a delicious, upbeat, atmospheric place in Soho that was lively without being overwhelming and affordable without being cheap - and at the same time offer a regularly-changing menu so I could go back without getting bored. 10 Greek Street is better than I could have hoped. The food is the best in central London if you ask me - certainly at these prices - the service more than matches, the room's romantic but not stuffy and the wine list is unparalleled in the area. I'd take a date, friends, family, or eat solo. I know I'm raving but it's honestly the best meal I've had in the centre of town for ages and I cannot wait to go back. Go now, before the queue's out the door!

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By Nat - Feb 17 2012

5/5

Went for the first time last week, and God, I'm in love this place. It's like having your own friendly local in the middle of Soho. The food is emotional, the atmosphere is warm and approachable and the prices are spot on. Why did it take so long?

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By Justin - Feb 14 2012

5/5

Number 10 Greek street review

On a day where love is rife and couples are living the hallmark dream, fine dining is at the epitome of the romantic gesture.

Newly opened modern European restaurant in the heart of mutil cultural soho 10GreekStreet is at the forefront of eloquent food with the charms of sophistication without the nuance of pretentious over priced entrees for the sake of perceiving 'the more you pay the better the food'

In the case of number 10 the staff attend to you're every need like no other. The attention to detail is astonishing an somewhat unnerving as no one has ever paid more attention to me than my mother.

The food itself is a delicious surprise of flavours on the tongue with more subtle touches than a coy guy willing the courage to ask out the love of his life for the first time.

Overall 10greekstreet is a fantastic venue for a young budding love to blossom into something special, just as I believe this restaurant has the potential for longevity and make its stamp on the insatiable dining experience in soho

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By M-NY - Feb 13 2012

5/5

I was looking for a restaurant in Soho that could offer my something which is not a chain-restaurant or one that has settled over time to provide mediocre food for the weekend tourists; and I have certainly found it.
The food was fantastic, the service was attentive and friendly and the whole feel of the place was simply vibrant and enjoyable.