If you wanted a venue that sums up the unwritten rule about much of London’s Hellenic restaurant scene, you couldn’t do better than Vrisaki. From the chip shop frontage’s metal deep-fat fryers, to the chiller cabinets packed with raw meat skewers, this ever-popular restaurant is very much a no-frills affair that attempts to coast on personality alone.
The three-course set meze menu has a focus on quantity rather than quality, which means that while few dishes will impress, you’ll barely be able to see your table under the weight of dishes that are piled on top. The selection of dips, herbed pulse salads and seafood medleys that make up the first course alone features no less than 16 plates. By the time the smoky pork kebabs, aromatic sheftaliá and fried quails’ wings of the final course arrive, most diners are asking for takeaway boxes.
Service is friendly and jovial, with wise-cracking, grandfatherly waiting staff ribbing customers about whether they’re up to the task of finishing their meal. The pleasing community feel of the place is also enhanced by the background hum of customers chattering animatedly in Greek.