Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
Time Out says
Fri Jul 20 2012
Overheard at Wilton’s: ‘My uncle died, up in Anglesey… he was a baronet.’ Walk into the most intimate of London’s grand-old-institution restaurants, founded 1742, and you can think you’re entering the world of PG Wodehouse, or, for more classy literary allusions, Anthony Powell. The snugly luxurious style is timeless; besuited gents, some almost certainly peers of the realm, occupy most of the tables for lunch. The great attraction is the service, the chance to be pampered by squads of black-jacketed waiters and ladies in curious green dresses who miss no opportunity to check everything is absolutely right.
Oysters, lobsters and other seafood, fish, meats from the grill and (in season) game in traditional British styles are the specialities, but there are also roasts, vegetarian choices and several set menus. The £48 lunch menu includes three courses, with a different glass of fine wine with the first course and main. A summer salad of quail’s egg, mushrooms and seasonal vegetables was brightly refreshing. More distinctive was the holstein escalope that followed: breaded veal topped with a fried egg and powerful little strips of anchovy, and served with a Madeira sauce, the whole amounting to a rich mix of treats perfectly matched with the indulgent setting. To finish, classic summer pudding was delightfully done. Presentation throughout is, naturally, absolutely right.
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