Yashin Ocean House

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Gloucester Road

If nose-to-tail eating conjures up images of sucking marrow from roasted bones, tucking into plates of offal or other meaty treats, then it’s time to think again. There’s next to no meat on the menu at Yashin Ocean House, instead, most things come out of the sea. From tuna served with chopped bonito stomach to deep-fried mackerel skeletons, this is scale-to-tail eating, if you will.

Set up by the same team as Yashin in Kensington (one of the best sushi restaurants in London), the eat-everything approach is more than just a gimmick. In Japan there’s nothing unusual about snacking on deep-fried fish spines in a smart restaurant (they’re a bit like crisps), so why not do the same in London? As long as it’s done well, of course – and it is here.

The bone-straight mackerel skeleton came with sweet vegetable crisps – a good contrast to the savoury fried fish frame. The flesh of the mackerel showed up in another dish, subtly lemon-cured and served with mussel tempura. This was accompanied by cucumber, served in an assortment of molecular forms that included sour sous-vide chunks, refreshing dollops of green purée, ethereal foam and dried crisps.

All of the six or so small plates we tried were good, but the standout dish was a dinky ice-cream cone-like wafer filled with layers of salmon eggs, whipped double cream and pak choi. Each mouthful was a party of changing flavours and textures.

There’s a distinct lack of carbs on the menu here. Unusually, they don’t even serve rice (though our waiter said they were thinking about it). Many of the plates are small, but after half a dozen or so shared between two, thoughts of a post-dinner trip to the chippy were forgotten.

Like its sister sushi restaurant, the look here blends quirk with upmarket sophistication, but on a much larger scale – check out the life-sized horse lamp. Lighting is low, the clientele well heeled and behind the central counter the chefs deftly apply their impressive craft.

This is one concept that has legs… or perhaps that should be fins.

Venue name: Yashin Ocean House
Contact:
Address: 117-119 Old Brompton Road
London
SW7 3RN
Opening hours: Open Lunch noon–2pm daily; dinner 6-10pm daily
Transport: Tube: Gloucester Road or South Kensington
Price: Meal for two with drinks around £130

Average User Rating

2.6 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:1
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  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:1
  • 1 star:2
LiveReviews|5
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Tom R

A great evening! I'm a huge fan of Japanese food and although this is not the place to go for traditional sushi & sashimi it wows in every other way! All the staff were friendly and very knowledgeable, the decor is warm and brilliant although we were a table of 6 so didn't sit at the bar It would be the perfect place for a couple to enjoy a few bites and one of their cocktails. The food was a theatre experience using dry ice, twisting the conventional Japanese cuisine to new levels. It isn't cheap but if you're someone who enjoys the whole restaurant experience like me definitely worth a visit!

A really really fun evening!

sogol a

Not quality price. Ive been to the one in high st kensington which was much better.I love see food and I leave nxt door but  I will never go back.

nthtnguyen

very poor food compared to the original yashin w8. they are trying to hard and loosing the japanese touch. little food portions served on massive plates - the combo of fish + various flavours of veggie/fruits/pickles didnt always work. wont go back to sw7 branch for sure.

Liz Bengis

Probably the worst meal we've ever had! The tuna smelled and tasted like dog food, the eel was inedible, the service was ridiculously bad! Do not eat here!!

Hayley

Being a regular patron at and vocal supporter of Yashin's High St Ken sushi restaurant since it opened, I was delighted to hear 6 months ago that Yashin Ocean House was in the pipeline. Even after 6 months of waiting, Ocean House was so much more than I ever expected. The decor is beautiful - simple and well thought out, with some quirky touches such as the stunning turquoise bar and the glass cabinet in the centre of the room filled with dry aged fish, hanging on hooks ready to be transformed into delicious delights by the two head chefs/owners. The food is wonderful - tapas style dishes ordered from a menu which is segmented by the area of the fish you're eating, including blood, skin, neck and bones. Sounds quirky and if I dare say it, a little too adventurous for most. Don't be fooled! The 'neck' dish I tried (Grilled Dry Aged Yellow Tail Kama) was incredible - rich and almost meaty. The menu is small enough to make it easy to choose (and feel reassured the kitchen knows what it's doing) and wide enough to ensure there's something for everyone. If you enjoy fish and Japanese food, this is definitely worth a try. Opening night was filled with a buzzing smartly dressed Kensington crowd, all of whom left smiling and satisfied. Service was subtle, friendly, attentive and well organised (for a first night!). I truly recommend booking a table at Yashin Ocean House before they're awarded a Michelin star (or two). Then it'll probably take you 2 months to get a table. I'm really delighted for the two chef/owners - bravo! Nobu, Roka, you should be worried. There's a newer, fresher, slicker establishment in town!