Theodor Adorno famously said, 'the emancipation of art from cuisine or pornography is irrevocable'. With exhibitions like this (preceded by Adria's 'stand' in Kassel), he must be turning in his grave.
elBulli: Ferran Adrià and the Art of Food
Until Sun Sep 29 2013
Time Out says
Posted: Wed Jun 26 2013
Probably the most divisive chef in history, Ferran Adrià has had an indelible impact on gastronomy across the world. When he closed his restaurant elBulli in 2011, those on the two year waiting list bemoaned their bad luck, while those privileged enough to have dined there could boast they'd eaten in the 'best restaurant in the world'. Adrià's legendary style of cooking – one which takes a scientist's approach to creating mind and palate-bending dishes dishes – is the subject of this exhibition which offers a behind-the-scenes peak at the chef's food laboratory and the artistic work of his team. Multimedia displays follow the journey of Adrià's dishes from his mind to our mouths, featuring his notes and sketches, plasticine models of the food, tasting menus, kitchen equipment, photos of the final meals and glowing reviews of his work.
The spirit of invention, theatricality and collaboration, celebrated here is to be reincarnated. Without the restaurant’s attendant restrictions of set times, bookings and routines, the building is to become a museum and research centre. Meanwhile Adrià is creating an online encyclopaedia of gastronomy (Bullipedia). And in a separate project (El Bulli DNA) he plans to share the results of his ongoing research into a revolutionary way of cooking that embraces surprise, irony, metaphor, memory and humour as vital ingredients.