Tom Bergin's Tavern

Time Out says

Thu Oct 18 2012

When the 63-year-old Tom Bergin's temporarily closed for renovations late last year, everyone was concerned about the shamrocks—the cardboard clovers bearing the names of the Irish tavern's regulars of past and present tacked to the ceiling. Thankfully, the shamrocks survived the eight-month renovation, as did the lovely U-shaped bar and dark wood panels. New owners Warner Ebbink and chef Brandon Boudet—together they also own Dominick's and Little Dom's—focused on retaining the tavern's history while modernizing its experience. The beer taps are all brand new, the green leather booths have a shiny sheen and the menu now features slightly upscale Irish fare, with the prices to match. The baked Cooleeney cheese, for example, is served with plump, in-season figs, while the tender, properly salty corned beef is cured in-house. The lovely Carrageenan pudding, with just a hint of Meyer lemon, is a welcome light ending to the meal.

Vitals

Eat This: Tom Bergin's corned beef and cabbage ($18) will serve you well and have you wanting enough leftover to make a sandwich for next day's lunch. And don’t forget dessert—made with pastry chef Ann Kirk's homey touch—which are an unexpected surprise.

Drink This: The Irish coffee, natch. In addition, the cocktail menu has been updated thanks to mixologists Marcos Tello and Aidan Demarest (1886, Neat). Try the Cooper Union ($12), a slightly sweet, strong take on the Old-Fashioned made with Irish whiskey and elderflower liqueur.

Sit here: The space stretches across three rooms, so choose a seat based on your mood. For a Cheers-like experience, or to watch the game, grab a stool at the bar. If you want to catch up with a friend, sit at a cozy booth, and if you're with the parents, ask for a table in the slightly more formal dining room.

Conversation Piece: As Tom Bergin's has been popular with not only local residents but also celebrities throughout its long history, the shamrock-studded ceiling has stars in its constellation. Look up and see if you can find Cary Grant's clover or Kiefer Sutherland's.

By Tien Nguyen