La Serenata di Garibaldi

This elegant restaurant in an otherwise slightly seedy block is a place of pilgrimage for those who appreciate fresh seafood the way it's prepared in Veracruz. This isn't to slight the very good chicken mole, the squash soup or the other items on the menu, but the red snapper is the star of the show. Valet-park at the rear of the building to avoid an endless hunt for a spot on the street.