Festivals & events in Madrid

Europe's greatest party town hosts fiestas and fixtures all year round

Festivals & events in Madrid Festival de Otoño - © Jon Santa Cruz/Time Out
By Time Out editors

Every season sees an arts festival, a music fest, a fiesta or a themed film season in Madrid. There is something here to suit all tastes, but, to make sure you catch one you like, it's worth doing a little forward planning.

Events and festivals that receive official sponsorship come under the aegis of either the Ayuntamiento (city council) or the Comunidad de Madrid (regional government), and the influence of politics, inevitably, is felt in culture. Other events are independent and still more are semi-independent, functioning with a mix of public and private money.

Fiestas usually celebrate a religious or historical event, though this is really just a pretext for dressing up, getting out and partying, something for which madrileños seem to have an innate talent. Dos de Mayo, San Isidro, San Antonio de la Florida and La Paloma are fiestas that people take part in with great gusto, and all are normally accompanied by good weather. Not that freezing temperatures or a few drops of rain are an impediment for the thousands who step out for Reyes (Three Kings' Day) and Carnaval.

Information & prices

Advanced festival information is scarce as programming tends to be finalised close to the starting date. For information on Ayuntamiento-backed events try 010 or www.esmadrid.com/en, and for Comunidad-backed events, try 012 or www.madrid.org. See also www.fiestas-de-madrid.com. Otherwise, listings magazines such as the Guía del Ocio and Metrópoli (a supplement of El Mundo), provide pull-out supplements on the Friday preceding big events and festivals. Spanish speakers should also look at www.lanetro.com, a good listings site.

Critic's choice

Reyes (Three Kings)

Where: all over Madrid
When: 6 Jan

On the evening of 5 January, Noche de Reyes, thousands of children and their parents line up along C/Alcalá to watch the annual cabalgata (parade), which is also televised. Dozens of elaborate floats pass by and the riders hurl sweets to the children. Later, most families have a big dinner, and the following day presents await those who have been good. Those who haven’t get a piece of coal.

ARCO

Where: Juan Carlos I exhibition centre
When: mid Feb
Tel & website: 91 722 50 00/www.ifema.es
An international contemporary art fair packed with gallery owners, critics and the general public.

San Isidro

Where: Plaza Mayor, Los Austrias, & all over Madrid
When: 1wk around 15 May
Tel & website: 010/www.munimadrid.es
This is the time to see madrileños doing what they do best: taking to the streets and having a rollicking good knees-up. The fiestas celebrate San Isidro, Madrid's patron saint, a humble 12th-century labourer and well-digger to whom all manner of miracles are attributed and whose wife, María de la Cabeza, was also canonised, making them the only sainted couple in history. The fiestas are officially declared open and nightly gigs are held (with the odd classical performance thrown in) at the Plaza Mayor.

There is more music in Las Vistillas park; music, theatre, painting workshops and more are put on for kids in the Retiro. Then there are countless musical events, markets and numerous religious ceremonies. Possibly most fun of all is the traditional romería (pilgrimage) at and around the Ermita de San Isidro, in the park of the same name; families in traditional castizo garb, looking like something out of a Goya painting, drink from wine skins and stuff themselves with traditional madrileño delicacies such as chorizo, morcilla and other offal dishes.

Festimad Sur

Where: Estadio Butarque, Leganés
When: late May
Tel & website: 91 522 37 87/www.festimad.es
Despite problems with funding and various other ups and downs in recent years, including changes of venue, Festimad, Madrid’s biggest rock festival, is certainly still alive and kicking. In 2007, at least, a range of Spanish indie bands will perform at the Estadio Butarque in Leganés, along with rock in all its variant forms. There will also be dance music, DJ sessions and a few big names. Recent years have seen artists of the calibre of the Pixies, Korn, Ben Harper, Patti Smith and the (International) Noise Conspiracy. Pearl Jam has been confirmed for 2007.

Festival de Otoño

Where: various venues
When: 4-5wks Oct-Nov
Tel & website: Comunidad de Madrid (91 720 81 94/3), tourist offices & 012/www.madrid.org
The impressive and always enjoyable ‘Autumn Festival’ offers somewhere in the region of 60-odd theatre, dance and music spectacles and remains one of the city’s major performing arts events. The range throughout the festival is quite wide. Acts as diverse as the Brodsky Quartet, Ballets Trockadero de Monaco, musical groups from Rajasthan, La Comédie Française, Eddie Palmieri and the Spanish Orquesta Nacional de Jazz have all popped up in recent years, with Tartuffe and Romeo and Juliet big theatrical draws in 2006.

Events take place both in the capital and surrounding towns, making a trip out quite tempting. Around ten venues in Madrid itself have shows, among them the Teatros Albéniz and Zarzuela, the Círculo de Bellas Artes and fringe spaces such as Teatro Pradillo and Sala Cuarta Pared.

Spring

Día de la Mujer/Semana de la Mujer

Where: various venues. Route normally starts at Plaza Jacinto Benavente, Huertas & Santa Ana
When: 8 Mar & surrounding wk
Tel & website: Dirección General de la Mujer (91 420 85 92) & Centro de la Mujer (91 700 19 10)
International Women's Day is celebrated in Madrid with a march, usually from Plaza Jacinto Benavente to the bottom of C/Atocha. Some of the many other related events taking place over the week include short film seasons and concerts.

Festival de Arte Sacro

Where: various locations
When: last 3wks Mar
Tel & website: tourist offices & 012/www.madrid.org
This three-week festival of music, dance, theatre, poetry, movies and conferences focuses on the role of religion in art over the centuries. The most recent festival looked at religious traditions throughout the world, from Buddhism to Catholicism and Islam.

Teatralia

Where: various locations
When: last 3wks Mar
Tel & website: tourist offices & 012/www.madrid.org
A regional jamboree of performing arts, including theatre, puppet shows, circus and cinema as well as workshops and other activities aimed at children and young people. In Madrid itself venues major include the Teatro Pradillo, the Círculo de Bellas Artes.

Science Fair

Where: Juan Carlos I exhibition centre
When: late Mar/early Apr
Tel & website: 91 722 3000/www.ifema.es
Wonderful if you have kids in tow, with touchy-feely exhibits to stimulate all the senses.

Semana Santa (Holy Week)

Where: all over Madrid
When: wk leading up to Good Friday and Easter weekend (Mar/Apr)
Tel & website: tourist offices & 010/www.esmadrid.com
Easter is usually a good time to be in Madrid, as many madrileños get out of town for the long weekend, and the weather is usually fine. In Madrid and nearby towns, there are many parish processions in which hooded penitentes schlep figures of Christ and the Virgin around. Regarded as the most impressive is that of Jesús Nazareño el Pobre from San Pedro El Viejo and around La Latina. All over town there are organ and choral performances in churches.

Klubbers' Day

Where: Madrid Arena
When: early Apr
Website: www.klubbers.com
This dance festival sets out to be a Madrid equivalent to Andalucía's Creamfields. Despite its name, it's actually a two-day event in Madrid Arena, which, when not being used for sporting events, converts nicely into a giant club and local and international talent steps up to the decks or does live sets.

Madrid en Danza

Where: various venues
When: 3wks Apr
Tel & website: tourist offices & 012/www.madrid.org/www.danza.es
Madrid’s international dance festival always brings in an impressive range of companies from Spain and abroad. The emphasis is on contemporary dance and there are many parallel activities: symposiums, exhibitions, video showings and workshops. The festival goes on throughout the whole region, but most shows take place in the various theatres around town.

Feria del Libro Antiguo y de Ocasión

Where: Paseo de Recoletos, Salamanca
When: 2wks Apr-May
Tel: 91 420 34 21
An old and second-hand book fair spanning a week either side of the San Isidro weekend. Here you may stumble across rare treasures, out-of-print editions or recent remainders. Don't expect much in English.

Fiesta del Trabajo (May Day)

Where: city centre & Casa de Campo
When: 1 May
The largest May Day march, attracting upwards of 60,000 people, is called jointly by the communist-led CCOO and the socialist UGT unions, which converge on Sol. Smaller in scale but quite animated is the anarcho-syndicalist CGT’s march from Atocha to Plaza Jacinto Benavente. The anarchist purists CNT/AIT, meanwhile, march up C/Bravo Murillo from Cuatro Caminos. Many of the participants then head to the Casa de Campo where the UGT organises a lively party with stalls run by the casas regionales, clubs representing Spain’s regions.

Dos de Mayo

Where: district of Malasaña
When: 2 May
Commemorating the fateful day in 1808 when the people of Madrid rose up against Napoleon's occupying troops and paid for their audacity by being massacred, 2 May is now the region's official holiday and kick-starts a nearly continuous series of fiestas that go on throughout the rest of the spring and summer. Things get going in the Malasaña neighbourhood - named after the uprising's teenage heroine, Manuela Malasaña - in the Plaza Dos de Mayo, where the Monteleón barracks, a main bastion of resistance, then stood. Live gigs are held in the Plaza and in the Las Vistillas park and there are events at a number of other spots around town.

San Isidro

Where: Plaza Mayor, Los Austrias, & all over Madrid
When: 1wk around 15 May
Tel & website: 010/www.munimadrid.es
This is the time to see madrileños doing what they do best: taking to the streets and having a rollicking good knees-up. The fiestas celebrate San Isidro, Madrid's patron saint, a humble 12th-century labourer and well-digger to whom all manner of miracles are attributed and whose wife, María de la Cabeza, was also canonised, making them the only sainted couple in history. The fiestas are officially declared open and nightly gigs are held (with the odd classical performance thrown in) at the Plaza Mayor.

There is more music in Las Vistillas park; music, theatre, painting workshops and more are put on for kids in the Retiro. Then there are countless musical events, markets and numerous religious ceremonies. Possibly most fun of all is the traditional romería (pilgrimage) at and around the Ermita de San Isidro, in the park of the same name; families in traditional castizo garb, looking like something out of a Goya painting, drink from wine skins and stuff themselves with traditional madrileño delicacies such as chorizo, morcilla and other offal dishes.

Festimad Sur

Where: Estadio Butarque, Leganés
When: late May
Tel & website: 91 522 37 87/www.festimad.es
Despite problems with funding and various other ups and downs in recent years, including changes of venue, Festimad, Madrid’s biggest rock festival, is certainly still alive and kicking. In 2007, at least, a range of Spanish indie bands will perform at the Estadio Butarque in Leganés, along with rock in all its variant forms. There will also be dance music, DJ sessions and a few big names. Recent years have seen artists of the calibre of the Pixies, Korn, Ben Harper, Patti Smith and the (International) Noise Conspiracy. Pearl Jam has been confirmed for 2007.

Madrid EnCanto

Where: Teatro Albéniz
When: 3wks May-June
Tel & website: 91 522 02 00/www.madrid.org
This short festival of song in the Teatro Albéniz has taken on an increasingly Latin flavour, as singer-songwriters from countries like Spain, Portugal and Latin America feature.

La Feria del Libro (Book Fair)

Where: Parque del Retiro
When: 2wks end May-June
Tel & website: 91 533 51 84/www.ferialibromadrid.com
First celebrated in 1933, the Book Fair is now a major international event. Hundreds of publishers are present and well-known writers show up to sign copies of their works.

Músicas del Mundo Getafe

Where: various venues in Getafe
When: May/June
Tel: 91 208 04 61
The southern industrial satellite town of Getafe organises an annual World Music Festival. For budgeting reasons this festival has had its share of ups and downs but looks set to continue. Past festivals have seen a predominance of African and Spanish fusion performers but in recent years the festival has featured music from the American continent, blues and reggae particularly, and from eastern Europe.

Summer

Música Antigua Aranjuez festival

Where: Chapel and grounds of Palacio Real de Aranjuez (www.patrimonionacional.es)
When: weekends, June and July
Tel & website: 902 10 12 12 12/www.telentradas.com
Summer concerts of baroque and renaissance music using instruments of the period take place in the chapel, theatre and the grounds of the royal palace. The much-love guided musical walks have pauses for cncerts along the way.

PHotoEspaña

Where: various venues
When: June and July (check website for exact dates)
Tel & website: 91 360 13 20/www.phedigital.com
Every spring/summer since 1998, PHotoEspaña has swept through Madrid’s major museums and galleries, redefining the city as an international photography epicentre. Each year has a different theme. In recent years, the retinue of photographic stars, many of whom give workshops and lectures throughout the festival, has included Nan Goldin, Joel Peter Witkin, Philip Lorca di Corcia, and Paul Graham. PHotoEspaña also transforms C/Huertas into an active outdoor exhibition space and puts on slide projections in Plaza Santa Ana and Centro Cultural Conde Duque.

San Antonio de la Florida

Where: Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida
When: 13 June
Tel: 91 547 07 22
One of the first of the summer’s biggest street parties, the San Antonio celebrations can trace their history back a very long way. June 13 is the feast day of San Antonio, the patron saint of seamstresses. Single girls used to place 13 pins in the baptismal font of the hermitage. If one stuck to her finger she would marry within a year. The main party, including events for kids, takes place across the Paseo de la Florida, in the Parque de la Bombilla.

Metrorock

Where: Parque Juan Carlos I
When: late June
Website: www.metrorock.net
As the name may suggest, this festival started its life as a series of free concerts taking place in Madrid’s underground stations. In recent years though, it has grown into a full-sized event, taking place in the well-suited Parque Juan Carlos I. The line-up includes a good mix of international and Spanish acts – Beck, Franz Ferdinand, Paul Weller, The Charlatans and OK Go have all paid a visit.

Summercase

Where: Boadilla del Monte
When: 2 days mid July
Website: www.summercase.com
A welcome new addition to the city’s music festivals in 2006 (when it had a 1990s feel, with Massive Attack, Fatboy Slim, Happy Mondays, Daft Punk and Primal Scream), Summercase runs simultaneously in Madrid and Barcelona. Meticulous organisation and sharp programming make this one a keeper.

Veranos de la Villa

Where: various venues
When: July/Aug
Tel & website: 91 758 92 70/www.esmadrid.com
As part of the ‘Summers in the City’ festival, a good selection of top names have appeared at the patio of the Centro Cultural Conde Duque, which acts as the festival’s main stage. Among them are Brazilians Milton Nascimento, Caetano Veloso and Carlinhos Brown, the fabulous Cape Verdean singer Cesaria Évora, many top flamenco artists, Youssou N’Dour and Femi Kuti, Cubans like Ibrahim Ferrer and some gnarled old rockers. Interspersed among them, however, there has also been a fair amount of dross.

Elsewhere, zarzuelas are programmed in both the Centro Cultural de la Villa and in the Sabatini Gardens beside the Royal Palace, the ‘Titirilandia’ puppet season for kids takes place in the Retiro, while Golden Age or more contemporary theatre productions may be seen outdoors beside the Muralla Árabe and in the Centro Cultural Galileo, and fringe venues all over town offer plenty more ‘alternative’ shows. Also outdoors is a two-screen cinema in the Parque de la Bombilla, down on the Paseo de la Florida.

Verbenas de San Cayetano, San Lorenzo & La Paloma

Where: La Latina & Lavapiés
When: 6-15 Aug
Tel & website:
tourist offices 010/www.munimadrid.es
Madrid popular culture at its best – the streets and squares of the old Lavapiés, Rastro and La Latina neighbourhoods are dolled up with flowers and bunting and the locals don their castizo gear for some serious street partying. San Cayetano is first, on 7 August, followed by San Lorenzo on the 10th and La Paloma on the 15th. Daytime sees parades and events for kids; by night there are organ grinders, traditional chotis dancing, the aroma of grilled chorizo and churros, sangría by the bucketful and a lot of good clean fun.

Autumn

Fiestas del Partido Comunista

Where: Recinto Ferial de la Casa de Campo
When: mid Sept
Tel & website: Partido Comunista de España 91 300 49 69/www.pce.es
In the political minority nowadays, the Spanish Communist Party still has enough resources and clout to stage a three-day fiesta. There are performances by flamenco and rock bands, theatre shows, stalls run by political groups, debates on many political and social issues and lots of regional cuisine in the casas regionales.

La Noche en Blanco

Where: various venues
When: Sept
Tel & website: 010/www.esmadrid.com/lanocheenblanco
To have ‘una noche en blanco’ means to spend a sleepless night, and this is insomniac heaven. In Madrid, as in Paris, Rome, Brussels and Riga, for one night only you can wander from exhibition centre to museum, from fashion show to concert all night long and all for free. See the website for a list of participating venues.

Festival de Otoño

Where: various venues
When: 4-5wks Oct-Nov
Tel & website: Comunidad de Madrid (91 720 81 94/3), tourist offices & 012/www.madrid.org
The impressive and always enjoyable ‘Autumn Festival’ offers somewhere in the region of 60-odd theatre, dance and music spectacles and remains one of the city’s major performing arts events. The range throughout the festival is quite wide. Acts as diverse as the Brodsky Quartet, Ballets Trockadero de Monaco, musical groups from Rajasthan, La Comédie Française, Eddie Palmieri and the Spanish Orquesta Nacional de Jazz have all popped up in recent years, with Tartuffe and Romeo and Juliet big theatrical draws in 2006.

Events take place both in the capital and surrounding towns, making a trip out quite tempting. Around ten venues in Madrid itself have shows, among them the Teatros Albéniz and Zarzuela, the Círculo de Bellas Artes and fringe spaces such as Teatro Pradillo and Sala Cuarta Pared.

Winter

Expo-Ocio

Where: Juan Carlos I exhibition centre
When: Nov
Tel & website: 91 722 3000/www.ifema.es
Dedicated to hobbies and leisure pursuits, the Expo-Ocio trade fair always draws huge crowds.

SIMO

Where: Juan Carlos I exhibition centre
When: Nov
Tel & website: 91 722 3000/www.ifema.es
Computer geeks unite at this huge international data-processing, multimedia and communications show.

Estampa

Where: Palacio de Cristal, Avda de Portugal s/n, Casa de Campo
When: late Nov-Dec
Tel & website: 91 544 77 27/www.estampa.org
A firm fixture on the arts calendar, Estampa is a well-attended show that brings together galleries and collectors from around the world to exhibit prints and contemporary art editions.

Feriarte

Where: Juan Carlos I exhibition centre
When: mid Dec
Tel & website: 91 722 3000/www.ifema.es
An international art and antiques fair.

Juvenalia

Where: Juan Carlos I exhibition centre
When: late Dec
Tel & website: 91 722 3000/www.ifema.es
Youth-oriented sports activities, along with magic, juggling, story-telling and so on.

Feria de Artesanía

Where: Plaza de España. Metro Plaza de España, Sol & Gran Via
When: mid Dec-5 Jan
Tel & website: 012/www.agrupacionartesanosmadrid.org
This large and crowded crafts fair is an ideal place to look for original presents and coincides with Christmas, New Year and Reyes.

Navidad (Christmas)

Where: all over Madrid
When: 25 Dec
Less hyped than in northern climes, Christmas begins, very reasonably, in December, and is traditionally less important than Epiphany (Reyes). Consequently you are not reminded of the number of shopping days left until Christmas at every turn and the absence of piped carols is almost eerie. Father Christmas, tinsel, flashing lights and baubles are far more evident than a few decades ago, however; all these trappings, plus lots of other cheap festive junk, are sold in the Christmas market in Plaza Mayor throughout December.

The big family blow-out is usually on Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) with shrimps, red cabbage and either roast lamb, sea bream or both. Some families exchange presents on the otherwise fairly quiet Christmas Day, but the big ones are usually saved for 6 January. Worth checking out at this time are the nativity scenes (belenes), displayed in many places, and the many organ recitals, choral performances and chamber music concerts held in churches and other venues.

Noche Vieja (New Year’s Eve)

Where: Puerta del Sol, Sol & Gran Vía
When: 31 Dec
New Year’s Eve is celebrated with gusto, usually en familia, and involves another blow-out meal, litres of cava and the curious tradition of eating 12 grapes as the clock chimes midnight. Ever resourceful, many supermarkets now sell seedless grapes pre-packed in dozens for the occasion. The Puerta del Sol is where thousands throng – not recommended with kids or for misanthropes. Clubs and bars organise parties, often starting at 12.30am or later. (Expensive) tickets should be purchased in advance.

Reyes (Three Kings)

Where: all over Madrid
When: 6 Jan
On the evening of 5 January, Noche de Reyes, thousands of children and their parents line up along C/Alcalá to watch the annual cabalgata (parade), which is also televised. Dozens of elaborate floats pass by and the riders hurl sweets to the children. Later, most families have a big dinner, and the following day presents await those who have been good. Those who haven’t get a piece of coal.

Festival de Flamenco Caja Madrid

Where: Casa Encendida & Teatro Albéniz
When: 2wks Jan/Feb
Tel & website: Cultyart 91 553 25 26/www.cultyart.com
Brings in the top names in flamenco for sessions of cante jondo, foot-stomping and guitar playing.

ARCO

Where: Juan Carlos I exhibition centre
When: mid Feb
Tel & website: 91 722 50 00/www.ifema.es
An international contemporary art fair packed with gallery owners, critics and the general public.

Carnaval

Where: various venues
When: wk of Shrove Tuesday
Carnaval is a very good excuse for dressing up and partying, either in the street or in bars and clubs. It opens in the Plaza Mayor, followed by a parade around old Madrid. On Ash Wednesday, the last day, there is a ribald ceremony during which a fish is carted around to the strains of a marching band, before being interred.

International Fashion Week

Where: Juan Carlos I exhibition centre
When: mid Feb and mid Sept
Tel & website: 91 722 3000/www.ifema.es
A biannual showcase for the best of Spanish and international creators. Ostensibly for professionals, but in practice blagging entry is fairly easy.

Public holidays

On public holidays (fiestas), virtually all shops, banks and offices, and some bars and restaurants, are closed. There is a near-normal public transport service, though, except on Christmas Day and New Year's Day, and many museums are open, with Sunday hours. When a holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday many people take the day before or after the weekend off as well, in a long weekend called a puente (bridge). Many places are also closed for the whole of Easter Week. The usual official holidays are:

New Year's Day (Año Nuevo) 1 Jan
Three Kings (Reyes Magos) 6 Jan
Good Friday (Viernes Santo)
May (Labour) Day (Fiesta del Trabajo) 1 May
Madrid Day (Día de la Comunidad de Madrid) 2 May
San Isidro 15 May
Virgen de la Paloma 15 Aug
Discovery of America (Día de la Hispanidad) 12 Oct
All Saints' Day (Todos los Santos) 1 Nov
Virgen de la Almudena 9 Nov
Constitution Day (Día de la Constitución) 6 Dec
Immaculate Conception (La Inmaculada) 8 Dec
Christmas Day (Navidad) 25 Dec

Our listings

While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.

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