If you prefer your Japanese food without the monochrome designer minimalist look that usually accompanies it, then this is your place. Hidden on a backstreet behind the Puerta del Sol, Kawara is a sashimi in the rough. Trust the tell-tale sign of authenticity (the patrons silently reading Japanese newspapers over their soup) and order the reasonably priced sushi tray: it comes with miso, followed by eight pieces of sushi and a large maki roll. Apart from that, there is a wide range of sashimi, noodle and meat dishes. Ask for tea, which will be replenished throughout your meal by Akiko, the sweet lady who runs the place.