It’s never nighttime at Dani García’s two-Michelin-starred BiBo. Or maybe it’s always nighttime (a festive atmosphere dominates the place). Responsible for this effect is the well-known interior decorator Lázaro Rosa-Violán, who designed the perfect lighting to teleport you to the Feria de Malaga in southern Spain, representing the roots of the Andalusian chef. The 800 m2 space, boasting dozens of tables and several bars, is where García shares the values, knowledge and experience he’s gained through his many travels.
If you’ve been to BiBo Marbella, you may notice some changes in the menu in the Madrid location, open since 2016. The restaurant, however, has the same buzz, and there hasn’t been an empty table since day one. It’s very difficult to book a table at weekends and, if you’re used to an early dinner, chances are you’ll have to give up your table for the second seating. You’ll come across beautiful people, a cosmopolitan air, music that runs the gamut from Rick Astley to Depeche Mode, a bar full of original cocktails, a lively environment and very efficient service.
The menu is very, very long and thoroughly demonstrates Dani García’s creativity and influences (Asian, Peruvian and French touches). Yet it’s his informal cooking, which is more accessible to more diners, that has made him a legend. Starters like cherry gazpacho and foie yoghurt are two of his most iconic dishes, providing clear examples of an attempt to democratize haute cuisine. But you shouldn’t expect such heights here. Yes, you will find quality, perfectly executed dishes, fun seasonings, classics remastered with flair and perfectly balanced flavours, but in some cases prices will be slightly expensive (though the quality is undeniable).
The offer is so extensive you get to choose between a meal of casual tapas – croquettes, prawn omelette, oxtail brioche, hamburgers – and finer delights such as superb ham cut to order, oysters, champagne by the bottle. Of course, their wine cellar houses all the heavy-hitters you expect from a place like this, but there’s special attention paid to sherry, and all are available by the glass.
To try some of the dishes, you’re better off calling in some reinforcements, specifically your meat-lovingest mates. The 1kg grilled Galician beef loin is recommended for four, and will have them drooling even before it hits the table. There are never-ending options to go for a meal with the family and for brunch at weekends.
