Five years after bouncing back from a humiliating spell in the second division, 'El Atleti' are still chasing that elusive place in Europe. The young squad here is coached by the wily Mexican Javier Aguirre. The loyal 'rojiblanco' faithful create a vibrant atmosphere in the 57,000-capacity Calderón stadium and, although the football itself can often leave more than a little to be desired, it is not uncommon for tickets to sell out entirely. When available, tickets can now be bought via the website, or by telephone: 902 530 500. In 2006, a museum was added near Gate 23 (91 365 09 31, closed Mon, admission €8-€3).