A good place to sweat out your sins is the Acquaplaya bath and spa in the basement of the Hotel Senator España. For €18 you can indulge in 90 minutes of soaking, steaming and swimming (floating oranges in one small pool are a fragrant diversion). Even quirkier is the sala de relax
in the back, an '80s-style black room that makes your teeth glow. The hotel also provides massage, facials and other treatments, at reasonable prices.