For those of us old enough to remember, it always felt fancy to get a pint at the European Bier Café. The multi-level pub housed many a liquor-fuelled adventure as groups of uni students and workers embarked on their own Euro trip across the beer taps, right in the heart of Exhibition Street. Though those hazy nights may be behind us (mostly), it’s hard not to feel a pang of nostalgia as you look at the familiar and beautifully preserved facade of the 1920s building, reimagined today as Morris House.
The new owners, Australian Venue Co., have brought in a team of interior designer geniuses to breathe the same trendy aesthetics into the space as their other favourites: Garden State Hotel, Beer DeLuxe and, of course, the Espy. Soft lighting accents the moss green of the bar and leather furnishings inset into the cedar panels. Brass rails along the stairways shine with old-timey class. And there’s a good mix of booths, barside and larger tables to accommodate all sorts of groups. This all looks very in vogue at the moment, and to the team’s credit, the space feels renewed and fresh. You’re reminded of an upscale European riverside restaurant – you know, those swanky old-money haunts filled with wealthy tourists.
We’re seated in the casual dining area on the first floor, humming sleepily with pared-back acoustic covers. While we can hear the clinks of cutlery and chatter around the room, it’s fairly quiet this Monday night – but the table’s QR codes and the waitstaff’s radios and efficient movements suggest that Morris House can get far busier, and they’re ready for it. Strolls past the pub on the weekends have indicated that Morris House does indeed get crowded, a hot meet-up spot for those in need of a tipple. Today’s been a long day though, so we’ll take a more low-key night out – which calls for something to hit maximum on my refreshment metre. A pink and popping Hibiscus Spritz does the trick, while my partner’s frosty pint of local pale ale also hits the sweet spot.
Some tongue-teasing appetisers are in order, so we go for the Wagyu beef bresaola with parmesan and a bowl of herb-salted fries. The bresaola is a rich blood plum hue, its gamey taste boosted by a dusting of parmesan. The seasoned fries show a surprising restraint on the saltiness, unexpectedly refined, even for chips. But then, this is Morris House, a couple notches fancier than your average pub. They’re snappy bar snacks, and all gone in a matter of minutes.
The wine list strikes a familiar chord with its small selection of established producers, with no strange funky drops or indie rarities in sight. A silky local pinot and an Argentinian malbec match well with our mains though, which, for the record, aren’t cheap. But generosity is the deal at Morris House – my Hazeldine chicken is a full-sized half bird atop a blend of pureed corn and kernels. The chicken is fork tender, and of a better quality than your average parma.
My partner’s princely-sized crumbed pork rib-eye is adorned with a crisp slaw and green tarragon-spiked mustard. We’re in texture country now, its crust thick and hyper-crunchy. The pork is noticeably fresh with a young and sweet taste, but it’s a little short on seasoning. Getting a bit of everything on the fork is the way to go, with the juicy, pickled slaw and tangy mustard a fitting remedy.
We’re sweating, here. The proteins dominate the plate. Generous, yes – but in the future, we’d share a main between us.
Though our stomachs can’t take much more, we can’t ignore the boozy Manhattan cheesecake. It’s topped with a cherry red disc (fun to shatter with your spoon), under which a rich cheesecake seduces us with its creamy tartness. We finish the whole thing, overeating guilt be damned.
As we tie up our meal a few seats away from a small empty stage, we’re pondering a Thursday evening when live jazz and cheap Negroni deals start the party at Morris House. Exploring more of the venue, we discover the rooftop brimming with life on this Monday, even more beer taps flowing and modern beats pulsing into the city streets. Downstairs in the basement, we find a bonafide NYC-inspired comedy club, with photos of well-known comedians lining the walls. It’s looking ready to host the next Jerry Seinfeld Netflix comedy special and we’d go back for a gig, or even just for another bowl of those top-tier fries.
Though Morris House may still have a little ways to go in its food and beverage offering, you can’t deny the venue’s ambition. It’s more than just a rooftop bar, more than just a pub, more than just a renewal of a classic Melbourne address. These folks are keen to impress and charm, and no doubt establish Morris House as a unique entertainment venue. So grab a friend on a day you’ve had a light lunch, and head in to sample the unexpected joys of new world-old world Melbourne. Once you sit down in one of the plush booths here, it’s honestly hard to leave.
