From the moment you step inside Issan Thai, you know you’re onto something good. To your left is a bain-marie that houses a rotating fiesta of Issan delights like spicy and sour catfish stew, rubbles of fiery larb, and brow-mopping jungle curry. Coast past the pick-your-protein stir fries that prop up their roaring takeaway trade and head straight for som tum. It’s a powerful addition to the salad canon, a mountain of shredded green papaya dressed with dried shrimp, crushed peanuts, lime, garlic, chilli and fish sauce. For the full experience get the pla ra version, which invites the salty funk of fermented crab to the party. At the heart of the menu are grilled meats ready to be bundled up with a leaf or tacky ball of rice, so if you like ssam, you’ll love this too.