Festivals & events in Venice

On land and on the water, there’s a lot to celebrate in Venice

Festivals & events in Venice Tobias Rehberger. Site-specific intervention, mixed media, Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Giardini della Biennale, Venice 2009
By Anne Hanley

Napoleon suppressed more than just the monasteries during his Venetian rule in the early 19th century: many traditional festivities in what had been Europe’s party capital were stamped out. By that time, Venice’s celebrations had become frantic and excessive, the tawdry death-throes of a city in terminal decline. The revelries that were resuscitated in the late 20th century – Carnevale, being the most famous example, and the almost as colourful Regata Storica – were done so by a city council with an eye firmly on tourist revenue. For a full list of events, see the City of Venice website: www.comune.venezia.it.

Critic's choice

Arena di Campo San Polo

Where Campo San Polo.
When Late July-early Sept.
Tel & web 041 524 1320/www.comune.venezia.it/cinema.
A huge outdoor theatre is set up in campo San Polo to show current films, usually dubbed into Italian, occasionally with English subtitles.

Biennale d’Arte Contemporanea & Architettura

Where Giardini di Castello.
When Art (odd years) June-Nov. Architecture (even years) Sept-Nov.
Tel & web 041 521 8711/www.labiennale.org.
The Biennale d’Arte, established in 1895, is the Jeux sans Frontières of the contemporary art world; its architectural counterpart draws a strong crowd.

Carnevale

Where Piazza San Marco.
When
10 days ending on Shrove Tuesday.
Information Tourist information (www.turismovenezia.it).
The world’s largest and most famous masked ball. Venice’s pre-Lenten Carnevale had existed since the Middle Ages, but it came into its own in the 18th century. As the Venetian Republic slipped into terminal decline, the city’s pagan side began to emerge. Carnevale became an outlet for all that had been prohibited for centuries by the strong and sober arm of the doge. Elaborate structures would be set up in piazza San Marco as stages for acrobats, tumblers, wrestlers and other performers. Masks served not only as an escape from the drabness of everyday life but to conceal the wearer’s identity – a useful ploy for nuns on the lam or slumming patricians.

The Napoleonic invasion in 1797 brought an end to the fun and games, and Carnevale was not resuscitated until the late 1970s. When it was reintroduced, it was predominantly with money-earning in mind: the city authorities and hoteliers’ association saw the potential, and today the heavily subsidised celebrations draw revellers from all over the world.

But if Carnevale fills Venetian hotels and coffers, it also gives the locals with a chance for fun and games. Visitors flock to piazza San Marco, where professional poseurs in ornate (and exorbitant) costumes occupy prime spots and wait for the world’s press photographers to immortalise them. Venetians, on the other hand, organise private masked and costumed celebrations, or gather in smaller squares: the 40xVenezia association (www.40xvenezia.it) – a social networking website created as a place where Venice's thirty- and forty-something professionals can can pool concerns and ideas, for example, turned campo Bella Venezia into a joyous Indian reserve for Carnevale 2009.

The party starts ten days before martedì grasso (Shrove Tuesday), though plans are afoot to kick off the festivities even earlier. Tourist offices can provide full Carnevale programmes.

Festa del Redentore

Where Bacino di San Marco, Canale della Giudecca.
When 3rd weekend of July.
The Redentore is the oldest continuously celebrated date on the Venetian calendar. At the end of a plague epidemic in 1576, the city commissioned Andrea Palladio to build a church on the Giudecca – Il Redentore (the Redeemer). Every July, a pontoon bridge is built across the canal that separates the Giudecca from Venice proper, so people can make the pilgrimage to the church. But, while the religious part of the festival falls on Sunday, what makes this weekend so special are the festivities on Saturday night. Boats of every shape and size gather in the lagoon between St Mark’s, San Giorgio, the Punta della Dogana and the Giudecca, each holding merry-makers supplied with food and drink. This party culminates in an amazing fireworks display.

Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica (Venice International Film Festival)

Where Along the main, sea-facing Lido esplanade, between the Hotel des Bains and the Excelsior (www.fourseasons.com).
When 11 days, starting late Aug/early Sept.
Information Palazzo del Cinema, lungomare Marconi 90, Lido (041 521 8711/www.labiennale.org).

The 11-day Venice Film Festival takes place along the main, sea-facing Lido esplanade, between the Hotel des Bains and the Excelsior (www.fourseasons.com). Between these two grand hotels is the marble-and-glass Palazzo del Cinema, where official competition screenings take place in the Sala Grande. Other festival screens can be found in the gargantuan PalaLido, inside the Casinò and at the Palabiennale marquee. In 2008, big names such as Jonathan Demme, with Rachel’s Getting Married, and Darren Aronofsky’s The Wrestler contended for the Golden Lion award.

Press accreditation guarantees virtually unlimited access to the festival; the press pass costs €50 and permits priority entry to a number of special screenings, mostly in the morning and early evening. Arrange this at least two months in advance by contacting the Biennale press office (041 521 8857, www.labiennale.org).

‘Cultural’ accreditation is another option; it allows access to a more restricted range of screenings. This should be arranged before the end of June. A special deal for people under 26/over 60 offers a six-day (€100) or 11-day (€130) festival pass. Individual tickets are available on the day before screenings from the ticket office at piazzale Casinò (lungomare Marconi, Lido, open 8am-midnight daily); Palabiennale (via Sandro Gallo, open 8am-midnight); and at the offices of La Biennale (Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1365A, calle del Ridotto, open 8am-1.30pm, 3.30-6pm). Same-day tickets are occasionally available. Note that we have given approximate prices; no information on possible increases was available as this guide went to press.

Spring

Carnevale

Where Piazza San Marco.
When
10 days ending on Shrove Tuesday.
Information Tourist information (www.turismovenezia.it).
The world’s largest and most famous masked ball. Venice’s pre-Lenten Carnevale had existed since the Middle Ages, but it came into its own in the 18th century. As the Venetian Republic slipped into terminal decline, the city’s pagan side began to emerge. Carnevale became an outlet for all that had been prohibited for centuries by the strong and sober arm of the doge. Elaborate structures would be set up in piazza San Marco as stages for acrobats, tumblers, wrestlers and other performers. Masks served not only as an escape from the drabness of everyday life but to conceal the wearer’s identity – a useful ploy for nuns on the lam or slumming patricians.

The Napoleonic invasion in 1797 brought an end to the fun and games, and Carnevale was not resuscitated until the late 1970s. When it was reintroduced, it was predominantly with money-earning in mind: the city authorities and hoteliers’ association saw the potential, and today the heavily subsidised celebrations draw revellers from all over the world.

But if Carnevale fills Venetian hotels and coffers, it also gives the locals with a chance for fun and games. Visitors flock to piazza San Marco, where professional poseurs in ornate (and exorbitant) costumes occupy prime spots and wait for the world’s press photographers to immortalise them. Venetians, on the other hand, organise private masked and costumed celebrations, or gather in smaller squares: the 40xVenezia association (www.40xvenezia.it) – a social networking website created as a place where Venice's thirty- and forty-something professionals can can pool concerns and ideas, for example, turned campo Bella Venezia into a joyous Indian reserve for Carnevale 2009.

The party starts ten days before martedì grasso (Shrove Tuesday), though plans are afoot to kick off the festivities even earlier. Tourist offices can provide full Carnevale programmes.

All you need for Carnevale

Masks they also make great souvenirs. Available from Ca' Macana, Carta Alta, MondoNovo, Papier Mâché and Tragicomica.
Cloaks Visit Monica Daniel to get covered.
Costume hire See Atelier Pietro Longhi.
Gondola hire Pricey but memorable. A map of official gondola stops can be obtained from the Gondola Board (041 528 5075, www.gondolavenezia.it).

Su e Zo per i Ponti

Where Across Venice.
When
One Sunday in March or April.
Tel & web 041 590 4717/www.tgseurogroup.it/suezo.
Literally ‘Up and Down the Bridges’, this excursion is inspired by the traditional bacarada (bar crawl). It is an orienteering event in which you are given a map and a list of checkpoints to tick off in the city of Venice. Old hands take their time checking out the bacari along the way. Individuals can register at the starting line in piazza San Marco on the morning of the event, while groups should phone ahead. Costumes, music and dancing liven up the route.

Benedizione del Fuoco

Where Basilica di San Marco.
When Maundy Thursday.
Tel 041 522 5205.
At around dusk on the eve of Good Friday, all the lights are turned off inside St Mark’s basilica and a fire is lit in the narthex (entrance porch). Communion is celebrated and the four elements are blessed: earth is represented by the faithful masses, fire by the large altar candle, water at the baptismal font and air by the surrounding environment.

Festa di San Marco

Where Bacino di San Marco, the island of Sant’Elena and the Punta della Dogana.
When 25 Apr.
The traditional feast day of Venice’s patron saint is a surprisingly low-key affair. In the morning, there is a solemn Mass in the basilica, followed by a gondola regatta between the island of Sant’Elena and the Punta della Dogana at the entrance to the Grand Canal. The day is also known as La Festa del boccolo (‘bud’): red rosebuds are given to wives and lovers.

Festa e Regata della Sensa

Where San Nicolò del Lido & Bacino di San Marco.
When Ascension Day (5th Thur after Easter).
Tel & web 041 529 8711/041 274 7737.
Back in the days of the Venetian Republic, the doge would board the glorious state barge, the Bucintoro, and be rowed out to the island of Sant’Andrea. After he arrived, he would throw a gold ring overboard, to symbolise lo sposalizio del mare – Venice’s marriage with the sea.

Today, the mayor does the honours, the Bucintoro looks like a glorified fruit boat and the ring has become a laurel wreath. The ceremony is now performed at San Nicolò, on the Lido, and is followed by a regatta. If it rains, local lore says it’ll tip down for the next 40 days. (‘Se piove il giorno della Sensa per quaranta giorni non semo sensa.’)

Mare Maggio

Where Arsenale.
When Mid-May.
Tel & web 041 533 4850/www.maremaggio.it.
This new annual festivity allows a three-day glimpse inside the towering walls of the military zone inside the Arsenale. There are historical re-enactments, homages to Venice’s boat-building traditions, promotion of local water-borne tourism and much naval self-glorification.

Vogalonga

Where Boats set off from in front of the Doge’s Palace at 8.30am.
When One Sunday in May or early June.
Tel & web 041 521 0544/www.vogalonga.it.
For one chaotically colourful day, Venetians (or at least those with strength enough to complete the 33km/20.5 mile route) protest against motorboats and the damage they do by boarding any kind of rowing craft and making their way through the lagoon and the city’s two main canals in this annual free-for-all on the water. They are joined by a host of out-of-towners and foreigners: in 2007, 5,832 registered rowers participated, 2,833 of whom came from outside Italy.

Veneto Jazz

Where Various venues around Venice.
When
Jan-Apr & June-Aug.
Information Via Corriva 10, Cavasagra di Vedelago (0423 452 069/www.venetojazz.com).
Tickets Box office at venues before performances.
Giants of the jazz scene perform alongside lesser-known talents in various venues around Venice and further afield in the Veneto.

Summer

Marghera Village Estate

Where Via Orsato 9, Panorama car park, Marghera (333 786 5622 mobile/www.villagestate.it).
When June-Aug, 6pm-2am daily, concerts 9.45pm.
The Village’s setting – a scrap of grass amid hypermarkets – may not be awe-inspiring, but this is where Venetians and mestrini of all ages spend their summer nights. Free nightly live music is followed by dancing and DJ sets, as well as a host of bars and food stalls to keep the party going.

Biennale d’Arte Contemporanea & Architettura

Where Giardini di Castello.
When Art (odd years) June-Nov. Architecture (even years) Sept-Nov.
Tel & web 041 521 8711/www.labiennale.org.
The Biennale d’Arte, established in 1895, is the Jeux sans Frontières of the contemporary art world; its architectural counterpart draws a strong crowd.

Palio delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare

Where Bacino di San Marco (starts at the island of Sant’Elena and finishes at the Doge’s Palace).
When June or July.
This competition takes place in Venice once every four years (2003, 2007, and so on; at other times it’s in Amalfi, Genoa or Pisa). The 2,000m race starts at the island of Sant’Elena and finishes at the Doge’s Palace. Before the race, 400-odd boats carrying costumed representatives of the four Marine Republics parade along the riva dei Sette Martiri and the riva degli Schiavoni.

Festa di San Pietro

Where San Pietro in Castello.
When Week ending 29 June.
The most lively and villagey of Venice’s many local festivals in celebration of San Pietro Martire. A week of events centres on the church green of San Pietro: there are competitions, concerts, food stands and bouncy castles.

Venezia Suona

Where All over Venice.
When
3rd or 4th Sun in June or last weekend in July.
Tel & web 041 275 0049/www.veneziasuona.it.
The name means ‘Venice plays’… and that it does, with hundreds of bands playing anything from rock to folk to reggae to jazz. Music can be heard from about 4pm onwards in campi all over the city.

Festa di San Giacomo dell’Orio

Where Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio.
When Week ending 25 July.
Concerts, a barbecue and a charity raffle make up this local fair: it provides a great occasion to ‘do as the Venetians do’ in a truly beautiful campo.

Venice Airport Festival

Where Forte Bazzera, via Bazzera, Tessera
When Late July/early Aug, 7pm-2am daily, concerts 9pm.
Information 333 973 4330 mobile/www.myspace.com/veniceairportfestival.
Strictly no cover bands: this festival hosts nightly gigs by top quality Italian and international indie rock bands, drawing fans from all over the region. Concerts are followed by DJ sets and off-beat film screenings.

Arena di Campo San Polo

Where Campo San Polo.
When Late July-early Sept.
Tel & web 041 524 1320/www.comune.venezia.it/cinema.
A huge outdoor theatre is set up in campo San Polo to show current films, usually dubbed into Italian, occasionally with English subtitles.

Festa del Redentore

Where Bacino di San Marco, Canale della Giudecca.
When 3rd weekend of July.
The Redentore is the oldest continuously celebrated date on the Venetian calendar. At the end of a plague epidemic in 1576, the city commissioned Andrea Palladio to build a church on the Giudecca – Il Redentore (the Redeemer). Every July, a pontoon bridge is built across the canal that separates the Giudecca from Venice proper, so people can make the pilgrimage to the church. But, while the religious part of the festival falls on Sunday, what makes this weekend so special are the festivities on Saturday night. Boats of every shape and size gather in the lagoon between St Mark’s, San Giorgio, the Punta della Dogana and the Giudecca, each holding merry-makers supplied with food and drink. This party culminates in an amazing fireworks display.

Ferragosto – Festa dell’Assunta

When 15 Aug.
Information Tourist information (www.turismovenezia.it).
If you want Venice without Venetians, this is the time to come, as everyone who can leaves the city. Practically everything shuts down and people head to the beach. There is usually a free concert in the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, on the island of Torcello, on the evening of the 15th.

Festa di Liberazione

Where San Polo, campo dell’Erberia.
When late Aug-early Sept.
Information www.prcvenezia.org.
Rally meets rave at Rialto for the Rifondazione Comunista party’s festival. Serious debates and films are followed by nightly concerts with salsa, rock, blues, reggae and world music.

Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematografica (Venice International Film Festival)

Where Along the main, sea-facing Lido esplanade, between the Hotel des Bains and the Excelsior (www.fourseasons.com).
When 11 days, starting late Aug/early Sept.
Information Palazzo del Cinema, lungomare Marconi 90, Lido (041 521 8711/www.labiennale.org).

The 11-day Venice Film Festival takes place along the main, sea-facing Lido esplanade, between the Hotel des Bains and the Excelsior (www.fourseasons.com). Between these two grand hotels is the marble-and-glass Palazzo del Cinema, where official competition screenings take place in the Sala Grande. Other festival screens can be found in the gargantuan PalaLido, inside the Casinò and at the Palabiennale marquee. In 2008, big names such as Jonathan Demme, with Rachel’s Getting Married, and Darren Aronofsky’s The Wrestler contended for the Golden Lion award.

Press accreditation guarantees virtually unlimited access to the festival; the press pass costs €50 and permits priority entry to a number of special screenings, mostly in the morning and early evening. Arrange this at least two months in advance by contacting the Biennale press office (041 521 8857, www.labiennale.org).

‘Cultural’ accreditation is another option; it allows access to a more restricted range of screenings. This should be arranged before the end of June. A special deal for people under 26/over 60 offers a six-day (€100) or 11-day (€130) festival pass. Individual tickets are available on the day before screenings from the ticket office at piazzale Casinò (lungomare Marconi, Lido, open 8am-midnight daily); Palabiennale (via Sandro Gallo, open 8am-midnight); and at the offices of La Biennale (Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco 1365A, calle del Ridotto, open 8am-1.30pm, 3.30-6pm). Same-day tickets are occasionally available. Note that we have given approximate prices; no information on possible increases was available as this guide went to press.

Asolo Art Film Festival

When Late Aug-early Sept.
Where Asolo (out of town).
Information Foresto Vecchio 8, Asolo (0423 199 5235/www.asolofilmfestival.it).
As well as being a leading protagonist in Liliana Cavani’s Ripley’s Game, Asolo also holds its own film festival, focusing on art and artists. Films are screened at the Teatro Duse (in piazzetta E Duse); other sites around the town host related events.

Circuito off – Venice International Short Film Festival

When 1st wk Sept.
Information Incubatore CNOMV, Giudecca 212, fondamenta delle Zitelle (041 244 6979/www.circuitooff.com).
This short-film festival, run by the Associazione Artecolica, includes competitions, retrospectives and videos. In 2008, it was held on San Servolo.

Regata Storica

Where Grand Canal.
When 1st Sun in Sept.
This event begins with a procession of ornate boats down the Grand Canal, rowed by locals in 16th-century costume. Once this is over, the races start – which is what most locals have come to see. There are four: one for young rowers, one for women, one for rowers of caorline – long canoe-like boats in which the prow and the stern are identical – and the last, the most eagerly awaited, featuring two-man sporting gondolini. The finish is at the sharp curve of the Grand Canal between Palazzo Barbi and Ca’ Foscari: here, the judges sit in an ornate raft known as the machina, where the prize-giving takes place.

Autumn

Sagra del Pesce

Where Island of Burano.
When 3rd Sun in Sept.
Fried fish and lots of white wine are consumed in this feast, in the calli between Burano’s brightly painted houses. Those rowers who are not legless then take part in the last regatta of the season.

Le Giornate del Cinema Muto

Where Gemona (out of town).
When Early Oct.
Information Cineteca del Friuli, Palazzo Gurisatti, via Bini 50, Gemona (0432 980 458/www.giornatedelcinemamuto.it).
In Europe’s most prestigious silent-movie festival, highlights include an international forum of musicians for silent movies, retrospectives and films such as the British documentary The Battle of the Somme (1916). Accreditation costs €30 and allows unlimited viewings (except opening and closing nights, when a silent movie with musical accompaniment costs €13). Non-accredited viewers pay €5 per screening.

Sagra del Mosto

Where Island of Sant’Erasmo.
When 1st weekend in Oct.
This festival is a great excuse for Venetians to spend a day ‘in the country’ on the island of Sant’Erasmo (an island larger than Venice, but with a tiny population that contents itself with growing most of the vegetables eaten in La Serenissima and nurturing its vineyards), getting light-headed on the first pressing of wine. The salty soil does not lend itself to superior wine – which is why it’s best to down a glass before the stuff has had much chance to ferment. Sideshows, grilled sausage aromas and red-faced locals abound.

Venice Marathon

Where See below.
When
4th Sun in Oct.
Tel & web 041 532 1871/www.venicemarathon.it.
The marathon starts in the town of Stra, east of Padua, follows the Brenta Canal, and then winds through Venice to end on the riva Sette Martiri.

Winter

Festa di San Martino

Where Around Venice.
When
11 Nov.
Kids armed with mamma’s pots and spoons raise a ruckus around the city, chanting the saint’s praises and demanding trick-or-treat style tokens in return for taking their noise elsewhere. Horse-and-rider shaped San Martino cakes, with coloured icing dotted with silver balls, proliferate in cake shops.

Festa della Madonna della Salute

Where Church of Madonna della Salute.
When 21 Nov.
In 1630-31, Venice was ‘miraculously’ delivered from the plague, which claimed almost 100,000 lives – one in three Venetians. The Republic commissioned a church from Baldassare Longhena, and his Madonna della Salute (literally, ‘good health’) was completed in 1687.

On this feast day, a pontoon bridge is strung across the Grand Canal from campo Santa Maria del Giglio to La Salute so that a procession led by the patriarch (archbishop) of Venice can make its way on foot from San Marco. Along the way, stalls sell cakes and candyfloss, and candles for pilgrims to light inside the church. Then everybody eats castradina – cabbage and mutton stew – which tastes nicer than it sounds.

Christmas, New Year & Epiphany (La Befana)

Venice’s Yuletide festivities are low-key affairs. There are two events: the New Year’s Day swim off the Lido (www.lidovenezia.it) for hardy swimmers, and the Regata delle Befane (www.bucintoro.it) on 6 January, a rowing race along the Grand Canal in which the competitors, all aged over 50, are dressed up as La Befana – the ugly witch who gives sweets to good children and pieces of coal to bad ones.

Public holidays

New Year’s Day (Capodanno) 1 Jan
Epiphany (Befana) 6 Jan
Easter Monday (Pasquetta)
Liberation Day (Festa della Liberazione) and patron saint’s day (San Marco) 25 Apr
Labour Day (Festa del Lavoro) 1 May
Assumption (Ferragosto) 15 Aug
All Saints’ Day (Ognissanti) 1 Nov
Festa della Salute (Venice only) 21 Nov
Immaculate Conception (L’Immacolata) 8 Dec
Christmas Day (Natale) 25 Dec
Boxing Day (Santo Stefano) 26 Dec

Our listings

While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.

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