The plethora of home-cooked dishes at one of Beirut’s best Armenian restaurants, tucked away on one of Mar Mikhael's back streets, make for a memorable meal indeed. This is the real deal: as Grandma Seza diligently prepares generations-old recipes in the kitchen, the rest of the family tend to the dining area, which is decked out like the front room of a bustling Armenian family home. For the warmer months there's also a luscious covered terrace, decorated with lights. Just like Lebanese mezze, Armenian food is great for sharing: the kavurma (a sort of braised lamb casserole) and frike stew are two of our favourites. There are cheaper Armenian restaurants in the city – many of them just down the road in Bourj Hammoud – but most lack the cheery domestic charm of Seza.