Die-hard fans (of whom there are many) don't mind Les Frères Jacques' location on this busy, slightly grotty street, nor are they deterred by its cramped interior. In fact, these things only seem to encourage their fondness for this classic French old-timer - and quite right they are, too. The seafood is spanking fresh, there's game in season, and the excellent cheese plates and own-made tarts are never less than delicious. At the weekend, a pianist eases the pain of the prices (though, it must be said, lunch remains great value). One of Dublin's best French restaurants.