This cosy old-timer is always busy. Try to book the snug table on the left as you walk in (No.21) - it's one of the nicest spots in town. Staff are lovely enough to make you forget that the pasta dishes here are, in fact, very average. You'd do well to order pizza instead: it's well made and baked in a wood-burning oven. Keep toppings fairly plain - a simple margherita with some mushrooms and garlic is one of the best options. Food can be prepared to take away. This is one of those places you go to for the atmosphere more than anything else.