With its steel H-beams and darkwood floorboards, its white-painted brick walls and old service elevator, its bookshelves stacked with interesting reads and its river-facing windows, the Winding Stair looks a little bit like a Tribeca loft apartment or some arty atelier in Berlin. Hardly surprising, really, given that it's affiliated to the bookshop of the same name next door; but the reality is this is one of the capital's most popular restaurants, with a reputation for putting well-sourced, high-quality ingredients to imaginatively good use. The menu is changed very regularly, if not daily, and might include starters such as own-made organic chicken and leek terrine with tomato chutney, and mains like smoked pollack poached in milk with white cheddar mash or roast neck fillet of pork with herbed white cabbage. The global wine list runs to several pages, including loads of great selections by the glass. Staff are enthusiastic about what they do, and their customers are too.