This Georgian mansion, a tiny beacon of classic calm amid the high-rise apartments and noisy chaos of Vauxhall Cross, has no trouble packing in a young, high-spending, professional clientele. Some are simply stopping by for a cocktail while perusing the desirable bric-a-brac on offer from architectural salvage company Lassco, but most are here to meet, drink, eat and generally enjoy the place’s markedly non-corporate hospitality.
It’s an appealing combination of boho-chic comfort, fluctuating lighting (of an evening) and minimalist menu presentation, along with a brilliantly tended bar and extensive lounge. Cocktails are prepared with panache and are good value; the food perhaps less so – following a punchy Pimm’s, an appealing-sounding summery starter of ‘asparagus, peas and berkswell’ disappointed by occasioning a needle-in-a-haystack search beneath a mound of rocket.
A main course of grey mullet would have worked better as a starter: both the potato accompaniment and sea greens turned out to be cold salads, and explained why the waitress pressed us to order vegetable side dishes (at extra charge). Bread – chunky and pleasing sourdough – also costs extra after the first slice.
Puddings proved a curate’s egg: excellent, crunchy brown bread ice-cream and strawberry ‘tart’ with thin, soft pastry and a slippery cheesecake filling.