Crispin

The most striking thing about Crispin might be the building – a handsome glass and zinc construction on a Spitalfields backstreet – but its food comes a close second. A venture from the people behind popular coffee house Lundenwic, it does a daytime menu that’s all organic bacon sandwiches, coconut-milk porridge and Assembly Coffee. But come nightfall, the offering is more ambitious – and it delivers.

Sourcing is strong here. Potato sourdough from Hackney bakery The Dusty Knuckle came with terrific whipped butter. Folds of meaty Secret Smokehouse salmon were teamed with homemade pickles, and the creamy burrata was lavished with olive oil from Senia.

The kitchen’s skills are also strong, from celeriac croquettes with moreish sage aioli to pork belly in broth with pickled daikon. Mushroom ravioli with wild garlic cream and pine nuts looked a treat and vanished in a flash. Only onions with labneh and hazelnut lacked pizzazz. Puds of rhubarb upside-down cake with milk ice cream and blood-orange sorbet with oats turned the dial back up to ten. Our advice? Go for the one-of-everything option: £27 a head gets you the full parade of small plates.

The minimalist dining room is airy but intimate. And service is slick. Our table wasn’t quite ready, but before we’d had time to grumble, we were seated at the bar with free fizz in our hands. Nicely done. Like Crispin, really.