Gordon Ramsay

Time Out says

Wed Jun 20 2012

Gordon Ramsay’s fortunes may rise and fall like those of great empires, but his namesake restaurant remains steady as a rock. The understated room was once home to Pierre Koffmann’s celebrated La Tante Claire, but its current incarnation has been no less triumphant; for many years this was the only London restaurant to hold three Michelin stars (it was joined in 2010 by Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester). Elegant and intimate, with only a handful of tables, the carpeted room is quiet but for the hushed chatter of expectant diners. Given the celebrity chef’s reputation, the menu is entirely lacking in ego, with no gimmicks, just a succession of visually stunning, technically astute dishes. An inventive starter of ravioli filled with smoked potato and a runny-middled poached egg came beautifully offset by roast chicken jus and delicate batons of warm cucumber. Equally memorable were pale medallions of rabbit loin wrapped in bayonne ham and served with a pretty assortment of broad beans, marjoram and confit tomato, ahead of a glorious twist on rhubarb and custard: an assembly of vivid pink macaron with a vanilla cream filling, poached stem pieces and a tart sphere of sorbet. The meal was punctuated by terrific ‘freebies’, such as just-baked mini-poilâne rolls, frothy amuses, and impeccable petits fours, so if you’re here for the set lunch, it’s remarkably good value. The heavyweight wine list will impress even the haughtiest of oenophiles, showcasing coveted bottles from across the globe. While there are a handful of less expensive by-the-glass options, the majority are strictly for big spenders. Gracious, friendly staff, led by the charming maître d’, attend to your every whim, be it sourcing signed souvenir menus or organising kitchen tours. As fine-dining experiences go, this teeters on flawless.