There are many things to like about the Spanish-ish bistro Lita. First, there’s the location; tucked onto a pleasant side street in Marylebone, a kind of less braggy, more socially acceptable Mayfair. Second, is the warm, inviting room – once a Carluccio’s – where the lights are dimmed just enough, the walls are a hazy shade of rose, seats are as cosy as the embrace of your favourite nan, and well-worn parquet floors all combine to create an ambiance that will offend absolutely no-one; from Hackney Marshes food foragers to Michelin star snobs, all are welcome here. Third is the brazenly open kitchen, so welcoming and so central to the homely space that you might accidentally stroll into it while looking for the loo and end up accidentally working a whole shift as a sous. There's lots of fish and lots of fire, and everything is slicked in so much olive oil that the dishes are glossier than a Steely Dan outro More interesting than all that though, is the man on the pans, Luke Ahearne. A dynamo of a chef, he has finally been granted a room of his own after working in the family cafe in Clonmel, Ireland, then toiling at a run of spectacularly impressive London restaurants; The Clove Club, Luca, and, finally, Corrigan’s Mayfair, where he was head chef at just 29. Long a talent to watch, finally the spotlight is fully blazing upon on his cookery. Lita itself brands itself as a ‘southern Mediterranean’ restaurant. In reality this means lots of fish and lots of fire, and everything
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