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A very long time ago there was a fish restaurant just off Leicester Square called Manzi’s. It was the kind of fabulous den where you might find the Kray twins plotting a spot of crime while Joan Collins feasted on huitres et moules. Manzi’s sadly shucked off this mortal coil two decades ago, a (clam) shell of its former self, and the corner building it had called home since the 1920s then became the short-lived St John Hotel (a venture you imagine might work far better in 2023 than it did in 2011, despite Anthony Bourdain’s effusive patronage).
Almost a century on from the original’s opening, Manzi’s – in name only – has been resurrected, for some mysterious reason, in Bateman’s Buildings. One of Soho’s grottiest stretches, it’s insalubrious in a way that Soho alleyways rarely are these days. To see the all-new Manzi’s here, with its sparkly West End lights and nautical grandeur, seems mighty incongruous. The fact that they’ve erected an outdoor terrace in a spot that was only recently the scene of much late-night outdoor urination, seems even bolder.
One of Soho’s grottiest stretches, it’s insalubrious in a way that Soho alleyways rarely are these days. To see Manzi’s here seems mighty incongruous.
We did our best to ignore that and headed inside, past the cheerful and tail-coated doorman, to find a giant swordfish sculpture looking like a Billy Bass, prepped to break into a jaunty rendition of Bobby Darin’s ‘Beyond The Sea’. Elsewhere there is coiled rope, gold fixtures and glistening marble; an unrelenting aesthetic that my friend chillingly branded ‘fascist cruise ship’.
If the decor is overwhelming, then the food plays it relatively safe. Oysters were perfectly presented hunky Carlingfords, and a sea bream ceviche with chunks of grapefruit might not have been very delicate, but why the hell should it be? Fried violet artichokes with parsley and lemon gremolata were crunchy and crispy in all the right places.
Though service was polite, proceedings were ponderous. A shared main of roast mixed shellfish for two finally arrives almost two hours into our booking. And at £100 for the far-from-massive fishy dishy, it’s certainly not cheap. Here you’ll find lobster, scallops, clams, mussels and two sneaky squid served in a soup of lemon and garlic butter, all atop a couple of wedges of bread, that are a little too soggy with liquid gold. It’s decent enough, but a touch more pizazz might be in order if you’re dropping a ton on a single dish.
Manzi’s could have made a bigger splash. With a few tweaks it still might.
The vibe All-day dining at a sparkly, nautical Disneyland.
The food Fancy fish – think bisques, chowders, ceviches and moules, as well as posh fish and chips, stews and, if fish isn’t the dish for you, steak.
The drink Cocktails with a coastal twist; maritime Martinis, Mediterranean Bloody Marys and Seabreezes.
Time Out tip There’s a three course prix fixe menu for £32.50; go for the grilled mackerel and peach melba.