Restaurants

The easy-going Rivington is one of few Shoreditch restaurants aimed at the over-30s. The look is industrial-conversion, with a bar area near the door leading to a slightly raised restaurant area. It’s all plainly decorated: just wood, white walls and white tablecloths, and the odd bright splash of modern art. Mornings are quiet, with noise increasing as the day progresses. We enjoyed breakfast (excellent, very buttery manx kipper, proper leaf tea) despite the amateurish lack of fresh juices (orange and pink grapefruit are claimed on the menu), but dinner remains our favourite. We like the mix and match quality of the menu (there’s the possibility of things ‘on toast’, such as welsh rarebit or devilled kidneys), as well as its tempting dishes. Salt beef and green bean salad or smoked eel with Jersey Royals to start, for example, followed by fish ‘fingers’ and chips with mushy peas (a winner every time) or the more challenging lamb’s heart, kidney and sweetbread with wild cabbage and mustard. Puddings are English cheeses or the likes of chocolate mousse or Yorkshire rhubarb crumble with custard. The Greenwich branch has a similar menu and ethos, but a more family-friendly vibe.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009