Le Comptoir Gascon

The most casual and least pricey member of the Club Gascon empire, the Comptoir focuses like its parent on the products of south-west France, and above all the area's finest meats and wines. Naturally, it seems de rigueur to order anything involving pigs or duck, such as 'piggy treats' (a little slab of superlative charcuterie - toulouse sausage, black pudding, bayonne ham and more, all deliciously subtle yet punchy) or the 'classic duck burger', a rich, superior patty in a brioche-like bun (for added indulgence, this can be paired with the Comptoir's first-rate foie gras). The duck-fat-fried chips also have fans aplenty. By contrast, rabbit with apple and mustard was far less impressive, the meat so tenderised as to be almost mushy, and thin on flavour. Greenery is fairly scarce, but there are a few vegetarian dishes.

Decor mixes bare brick and stylish details, tables are small and close together, and the restaurant is often packed. Service was friendly, though for somewhere with such special specialities many staff seemed ill-informed. A supremely smooth Gaillac red was one of several well-priced quality wines on an original list, which, like many meats, is available at the deli counter to take home.