Criterion

With its prime Piccadilly Circus location, Criterion is the restaurant of choice for tourists, theatre-goers, hen parties and those who just fancy a bit of escapist glamour. Step inside, and the garish fluorescent lights and rowdy teens congregating around Eros are quickly forgotten, replaced by plush curtains, cushioned banquettes and above all, a glittering, golden mosaic ceiling.

When booking the pre-theatre menu, we were delighted by the considerate receptionist, who took notes to ensure we would have enough time to eat before curtain call; staff on the floor, however, left much to be desired. Service skated between condescending and cheerful, depending on whose attention we managed to catch; dishes came out quickly, but, once finished, lingered far too long on the table.

Enthusiastic salting marred both beef carpaccio (otherwise decent), and chunky ham hock terrine, but things improved with a main of light, satisfying Cornish mackerel, served with crisp rocket and fennel and juicy, peeled cherry tomatoes. Desserts are a highlight, with cherry and frangipane making an impression; they could lose the chewing gum-flavoured mint and yoghurt sorbet, however. The kitchen has potential - some of the main menu offerings were real beauties - but service has some catching up to do.