Bar Amá

When you’re looking for puffy tacos so crunchy, a queso dip so silky you crave it for weeks on end and other comforting, cozy fare, it can only mean one thing: You need a Bar Amá fix, stat. Here, chef Josef Centeno, a San Antonio native, pays homage to his roots with dishes like potato croquetas, green chicken enchiladas and hen of the woods mushroom birria. The queso here is the best I’ve tried in Los Angeles, and while the tacos and hearty entrées may get all the glory, the vegetable dishes here shine just as bright. In truth, it’s impossible to go wrong with just about anything here (even the vegan queso). Stop by early for Super Nacho Hour (Tuesday through Saturday 5–7pm and Sunday 4–6pm) which includes its saucy namesake; sweet potato tacos dorados topped with molé; and a squash blossom quesadilla. At the bar, the menu is available all night.