Weekend getaways: Ballarat

The first must-see you'll want to knock off your itinerary is the Art Gallery of Ballarat. It's Australia's oldest regional art gallery, established in 1884, and hosts an impressive rotation of exhibitions from local and international artists. From contemporary sculptures to massive interactive installations, you never know what you'll discover within – or on – this two-storey gallery's walls. 

A visit to Ballarat isn't complete without a relaxing, two-hour stroll around Lake Wendouree. But if you want to go a quirkier route, you could catch one of the historic trams run by the volunteer-run Ballarat Tramway Museum. Tram rides start and finish from the museum within the tranquil Ballarat Botanic Gardens. Speaking of which, that's another outdoorsy spot you'll want to explore if you want to breathe in all that beautiful, fresh Ballarat air. Situated at the western shore of the lake, it's a significant Australian cool-climate botanic garden that's more than 150 years old.

Take some time to explore the Robert Clarke Conservatory, a glittering glass conservatory that visitors can walk through and marvel at the seasonal flower displays. The gardens also feature bronze busts of Australia’s first 28 prime ministers (very impressive given how quickly they change) and 12 Italian marble statues donated by Thomas Stoddard in 1884.

Flanking the southeastern side of Ballarat, Sovereign Hill is where history comes to life. The ten-hectare outdoor museum-slash-theme park is sort of an antipodean version of Westworld, if the show were family-friendly. There's nothing quite like it in Australia, and it genuinely makes learning about Victoria's Gold Rush past fun for everyone. All year round, there's a jam-packed program of events and special celebrations to check out – from crafty workshops to foraging walks and festivals. So whether you have little ones in tow, you're travelling solo, paired up or in a group of friends, don't sleep on Sovereign Hill. Good luck panning for gold in the creek! 

Finally, there's Kryal Castle. 'Tis a strange little place, old Kryal Castle, but well worth a visit at least once in your life. Once home to heaving rave parties in the early 2000s, it now hosts jousting and rodeo events, kids' activities, medieval role playing and all sorts of fantasy-oriented shenanigans. 

The temps can get a little chilly in Ballarat, so do like the locals do: warm up in one of the cosy central cafés for a cuppa and a delicious hot brunch.

You can't go wrong kicking your day off at the Stables Café and Bar. This quaint licensed eatery not only nails a good coffee (from local award-winning roasters Karon Farm), but also offers warm service, a charming courtyard and tasty breakfasts that showcase local meat and produce. We were lucky to try the Filipino-born chef's incredible pork adobo pie (an entrant in the 2024 Ballarat's Best Pie competition), and he's also known to cook up a mean sisig – a sizzling Filipino dish of pork, egg and rice.

If you need a hair of the dog, check out Johnny Alloo for a big brunch. This groovy modern café will whip you up a Negroni or a Mimosa fizzing with pét nat to help you chow down that chilli scramble. Situated on the historic promenade, Webster's Market and Café is another local favourite for morning fare. The renovated heritage cornerstore serves Industry Beans coffee alongside a simple, produce-driven menu.

Hungry for a long lunch instead? Perhaps with some expertly paired vino? Black Cat Truffles by Liam Downes is a little outside Ballarat, but it’s well worth the 15-minute drive. Not only is this gorgeous slice of Central Highlands a restaurant, event space and retailer – it's also an actual truffle farm! Don't miss out on joining a truffle hunt. Black Cat Truffles' innovative degustation lunch could just be the most impressive dining experience in Ballarat right now. Alternatively, you can make a booking for brunch, a la carte and even bottomless Mimosa picnics in the truffière (truffle orchard) in springtime.

What about dinner? If you're staying at Hotel Vera, you'll want to check out its five-star restaurant Babae. The hospo crew at the helm are immensely passionate about the region, and take produce in showcasing its finest local produce.

If you're after something a bit different, Peasant dishes up modern takes on historic working class fare. Our advice? Do the optional wine pairing (their sommelier is excellent). We loved Peasant's goat cheese gnocchi and pork neck Bourgignon on our last visit, but note: the hyper-seasonal menu changes every month. 

The fanciest restaurant in Ballarat, of course, is the super fine diner Underbar. Working alongside the sommelier Tony Schuurs, chef and owner Derek Boath is formerly of three-Michelin-starred New York restaurant Per Se. 

If you want to eat well without breaking the bank, rest assured that there are plenty of budget-friendly dinner options in Ballarat that'll still have you rolling out the door full and happy. Try the epic portions of pub grub at Queen's Head Hotel or the wonderfully authentic Turkish eats at Kazan Central Asian Kitchen.

One of the many benefits of catching the train to Ballarat is that Itinerant Spirits is just metres away from the station. Situated within the historic 160-year-old Goods Shed, this world-class distiller makes whiskey, gin and vodka from locally sourced grains and botanicals. Here, you can sink into one of the comfy lounges for a tasting or cocktail, or attend a fascinating masterclass to learn more about the art of crafting spirits.

If you're looking for something a bit spicier – say, Latin American – then cha-cha your way over to Pancho. This colourful bar and eatery dishes up aguachile and tacos alongside fun, fruity cocktails. Go classic and get a Caipirinha.

Ballarat’s soil may have lost its gold but remains rich in all the nutrients needed to grow award-winning wine. Eastern Peake vineyard and winery is a 20-minute drive outside of Ballarat, and has been producing wine with a wonderfully ad hoc attitude for more than 30 years. Owen Latta, an award-winning winemaker, has been helping make beautiful minimal intervention wines at his family-owned winery since he was a teenager.

In the city of Ballarat itself, Mitchell Harris Wines is the place to go for a tipple. The building is 140 years old and formerly a produce store, tentmaker and motor workshop. It’s not uncommon to see the bar heaving on a Friday afternoon as locals sip vino and snack on small plates.

If you're looking for Gatsby-esque vibes or you're planning a special occasion like a birthday, Grainery Lane is our top bar pick. Aglow within one of Ballarat’s historic grain houses, the unique saloon-style bar brings back the glitz of the city’s Gold Rush era, with an original bar top sourced from Chicago spanning the entire wall. Sink into a plush leather lounge under the sparkling chandeliers and live it up. There's even a secret speakeasy out back.

Housed in a restored historic 19th-century medical building, Hotel Vera offers an opulent stay in the heart of Ballarat's CBD. Extensive care has been taken to preserve the heritage elements and curate a luxurious and welcoming experience. 

The boutique hotel features a cosy foyer with a fireplace and floor-to-ceiling bookcase, the fine dining restaurant Babae and seven gorgeously appointed rooms.

Each suite is named and coloured after a Goldfields township; think the green-hued Kingston, after the famed potato-growing region, or the dark pink Tourello, inspired by the rich volcanic soils of the locality. 

No matter which room you choose, a few things are guaranteed: king-sized beds with rich linen bedclothes, a mini bar filled with locally made treats and spacious bathrooms equipped with heaven-scented Salus products. Can we stay forever, please?

Lauren Dinse visited Ballarat and stayed as a guest of the City of Ballarat and Hotel Vera. Bookings can be made online at the website and rooms start at $299 per night.