The catacomb-like interior, so busy with North African bric-a-brac as to border on the theme-parky, frequently hosts large groups of boisterous diners. But the food is more subtle than the atmosphere suggests. The Mediterranean salad sampler (baba ghanoush, tabouli and Israeli salad) was presented as a three-layered concoction. Lamb tagine with mushrooms was succulent, but the biggest treat came in the form of sweet-and-smoky barbecued short ribs, which seemed more Texan than Moroccan.
600 Columbus Ave
|Cross street:||at 89th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu, Sun 11:30am–10:30pm; Fri 11:30am–3pm; Sat one hour after sundown–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: B, C to 86th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $18. AmEx, MC, V|