The smell of smoke will greet you when you first step into Burn. It is, after all, a wood-fired restaurant, with an open kitchen and firebrick oven that exhales smog, the kind that sticks to your clothes, or the kind that hints at the promise of a delicious, toasty meal – depending on how you look at it.
Your attitude might warm up once the food is served. As long as you remember to skip the small plates. The smoky blue crab ($14) was both confusing and cumbersome to consume with the accompanying bread. Sardines and pesto ($14) might be a better choice. Grilled, rather than deep-fried, it’s a warm, tender treat – only if you can look past the small bits of bones that protrude in every bite.
The reasons (there are multiple) to stay lie in its hearty mains. Smoky lamb cutlets ($28), having spent some time in the oven, have removed all trace of gaminess. Its fatty richness soothed by the cool crunch of the couscous cucumber salad and avocado salsa.
The oven’s transformative power extends beyond the usual proteins of ribeye and tuna as well. Even non-vegetarians will love the grilled pumpkin and feta ($20) and all its tender sweetness. Its paired with roasted zucchini, blistered Padron peppers, and served with creamy burrata to lend a cooling welcome to the dish.
Other flame-kissed toppings can also be found in grain bowls (from $18), between slices of rye or cagel, a special bagel-ciabatta hybrid (from $17), and, our favourite, in modern brunch dishes like the roasted pork tossed with eggless kolo noodles ($18), mushrooms, anchovies, and fresh herbs tossed in potent chilli oil.
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