Revolver is a hot take on Indian cooking. The modern grill house sizzles up the spice-scented cuisine to impart a kiss of smoke into all of its dishes. And fanning the flames at its open kitchen is Saurabh Udina, formerly from Farzi Cafe and Masala Library in India. “There is something about the fire and flavour of grilling that I’ve always loved … it can create an intoxicating journey in just one mouthful,” shares the chef.
That fiery journey is best experienced through a nine-course tasting menu ($199). The grill, which comes heated by Yarra wood, might come laid with stuffed courgette flowers, its springtime qualities awakens with a brush of tomato chutney; squares of fresh paneer flown in weekly from New Delhi, paired with a sweet, shrimp-less Goan-style sambal; or fillets of local barramundi brightened with mango dust.
A tandoor oven might also be utilised to impart an alluring char. The skewer of chicken neck and wing, slick with spice and smoke, provides fun textures with every bite. Gruyere-stuffed flatbread is kneaded upon order, then baked to develop crusty spots. It forms a chewy base for dollops of pulled pork, suffused with aromatic coconut masala for a delightfully moreish bite.
Other smoky, spicy plates include a wagyu Scotch egg, jazzed with turmeric aioli; tender cuts of lamb, marinated for over three days with some papaya paste to break down the meat fibres; and Boston lobster, laced with an addictive pepper garlic butter sauce that is best soaked up with the accompanying side of basmati rice. Pair the spice-laden dishes with glasses of wine ($50 for three), ranging from a vibrant orange label to classic red, or wash down the meal with some highly refreshing strawberry gin-based Blush Gimlet. With its impressive line-up of hot and haute creations, Revolver certainly hits the bullseye.
