France's perfect places

Hip hotels, gastronomic delights, and stunning scenery

France's perfect places Seeko’o Hotel, Bordeaux
By Dominic Earle

From extinct volcanoes and imperious rivers to expansive vistas and pristine beaches, France has it all. Dominic Earle, editor of Time Out  guide ‘France: perfect places to stay, eat & explore’, picks out his favourites.

Rural idylls

1. Loire Valley

Resplendently lush and supremely regal, France’s Loire Valley is a fairy-tale land of medieval and Renaissance châteaux strung out like cream-coloured pearls along the sweeping Loire, Maine, Vienne and Indre rivers.

Where to sleep

Château de Verrières (53 rue d’Alsace, Saumur, www.chateau-verrieres.com), a sumptuous belle époque home built by one of the Louvre’s architects, is the perfect hideaway, brimming with antique furniture, sculpted wood panelling and views to die for over Saumur’s castle.

Where to eat and drink

Les Ménestrels (11 rue Raspail, Saumur, www.restaurant-les-menestrels.com), where culinary genius Christophe Hosselet invents flavoursome dishes such as rabbit and chorizo ravioli or succulent scallops with orange, artichoke and parmesan sauce. Wash it all down with a 2006 saumur-champigny from the Clos Cristal domain.

Getting there

Tours Val de Loire airport (www.tours.aeroport.fr) is 6km northeast of Tours. TGV from Paris to Tours (57mins) or Angers (1hr 30mins).

When to go

Spring or autumn, when everywhere is open but the crowds are less dense.

2. Basque Country

Red peppers, oxblood farmhouses, crashing breakers, spicy food and a language that seems to consist almost entirely of Xs, Zs and Vs all contribute to making this one of the most exotic corners of France.

Where to sleep

Maison du Lierre (3 av du Jardin Public, Biarritz, www.maisondulierre.com). Hélène Devèze bought this pension de famille a couple of years ago and restored the beautiful staircase, wooden wainscotting and creaky parquet to transform it into a charming, tranquil retreat in the centre of Biarritz.

Where to eat and drink

Bodega Chez Gilles (23 quai Jaureguiberry, Bayonne) is one of the best addresses on Bayonne’s lively riverside drag. Feast on excellent steak, sea bass with Serrano ham, a parillada of mixed grilled fish or shared plates of marinated anchovies.

Getting there

Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne airport (www.biarritz.aeroport.fr) is less than five miles from Biarritz. TGV from Paris to Bayonne or Biarritz (5hrs).

When to go

Spring or early autumn, when the cultural calendar is in full swing.

Cities

3. Bordeaux

France’s sixth biggest city has undergone a remarkable transformation over the past few years. Bordeaux has always been beautiful, but for a long time much of the place’s upkeep was shamefully neglected. Now decades of grime have been cleaned off, derelict warehouses have been demolished and a new riverside promenade has been created.

Where to stay

Seeko’o Hotel (54 quai de Bacalan, www.seekoo-hotel.com) is definitely the hippest hotel to have hit Bordeaux in centuries. The gleaming white iceberg (the hotel’s name, Seeko’o, is Inuit for ‘iceberg’) stands out in pearly splendour in the newly happening Bacalan warehouse district.

Where to eat and drink

Le Petit Commerce (22 rue du Parlement Saint-Pierre, www.le-petit-commerce.info) is all about superb fresh fish and shellfish delivered daily from the ports of Arcachon and Royan and served without frills. It likes to call itself a ‘fish canteen’ rather than a restaurant, and you can just as easily snack at the Formica bar over a plate of whelks as feast on turbot at one of the tables.

Getting there

Bordeaux-Mérignac airport (www.bordeaux.aeroport.fr) is 10km from the city. TGV from Paris (3hrs).

When to go

Spring, early summer and autumn are the best times to visit. High summer can be oppressively hot.

4. Strasbourg

Strasbourg is an immaculately preserved medieval town and a dynamic European capital; a picture-book city that stands at the crossroads of Europe, just over two hours from Paris and three kilometres from Germany.

Where to sleep

Hôtel Beaucour Baumann (5 rue des Bouchers, www.hotel-beaucour.com), where stepping into the courtyard feels like arriving in a sort of mini-Alsace – on all sides, brightly coloured half-timbered houses are lined with geranium-filled window boxes. A serene urban escape just minutes from the cathedral.

Where to eat and drink

Art Café (1 pl Hans Jean Arp, www.musees-strasbourg.org). There’s no need to visit the Modern Art Museum to sample its café, which boasts the best terrace view in Strasbourg. Sip coffee or eat a light bite while gazing down on the barrage Vauban, La Petite France and the cathedral beyond.

Getting there

Strasbourg airport (www.strasbourg.aeroport.fr) is south-west of the city in Entzheim. TGV from Paris (2hrs 15mins).

When to go

Weather-wise, spring and autumn are ideal. Winter often brings sub-zero temperatures, but December’s Christmas market makes it the busiest time.

Small gems

5. Aix-en-Provence

With its elegant golden stone mansions and elite opera festival, Aix epitomises the south of France at its most civilised. Yet despite its haughty reputation, this is a surprisingly young place, with 40,000 students and a thriving café society.

Where to sleep

Hôtel Le Pigonnet (5 avenue du Pigonnet, www.hotelpigonnet.com). Cézanne once painted the Montagne St-Victoire from the grounds of this civilised eighteenth-century mansion, about a kilometre outside town. The Pigonnet now has four stars and 50 rooms in all, with wonderful gardens to explore and an outdoor pool.

Where to eat and drink

Café Bastide du Cours (43-47 cours Mirabeau, www.cafebastideducours.com) is charming. It has a sumptuous dining room and a lovely terrace, with tables arranged around an enormous plane tree. Dishes such as Chavignol goat’s cheese in lavender honey and thyme pastry are out of this world.

Getting there

Nearest airport is Marseille-Provence (www.mrsairport.com), 34km from Aix-en-Provence. TGV from Paris (2hrs 57mins).

When to go

The annual Festival International d’Art Lyrique (www.festival-aix.com), one of France’s most prestigious festivals, takes place during July.

6. Metz

The handsome capital of the Lorraine region is a genuine delight, with ancient, honey-yellow architecture, a plethora of parks and the brand new Pompidou Centre due to open in 2010.

Where to sleep

Hôtel du Théâtre (1-3 rue du Pont Saint Marcel, www.hotel-du-theatre-metz.abcsalles.com) is part hotel, part museum. The impressive reception has exposed beams and staff dressed in traditional Lorraine uniform, and the nostalgia continues in the 66 rooms with period detailing and creaking floorboards galore.

Where to eat and drink

Restaurant Thierry (5 rue des Piques, www.restaurant-thierry.fr), where Thierry Krompholtz loves to blend far-flung cuisines in ever more original ways – green tea soup, seafood tagine, and caramelised piglet’s cheeks are all delicious. The setting is pleasant too, a sixteenth-century townhouse with splashes of Asian chic.

Getting there

Nearest airport is Metz-Nancy-Lorraine in Goin (www.metz-nancy-lorraine.aeroport.fr), 16.5km southeast of Metz. TGV from Paris (82mins).

When to go

April to October. The free Metz en Fête festival takes place during July and August.

Mountains

7. The Vosges

Two expansive regional parks, three French régions and hundreds of pretty villages fall within the Vosges. While the lush forests and great glacial lakes of the mountains are a hiker’s heaven, the vineyards and winstubs (literally ‘wine rooms’) in the valley attract wine-lovers and gourmands from all over the world.

Where to sleep

Hôtel Gilg (1 rte des Vins, www.hotel-gilg.com) is set in the centre of Mittelbergheim, one of the prettiest villages on the Route des Vins – this homely inn dates back to 1614, making it one of the oldest winstubs in Alsace.

Where to eat and drink

Flamme & Co (4 rue du Général de Gaulle, Kaysersberg, www.flammeandco.fr) has a simple plan: to reinvigorate the classic Alsatian flammekueche (baked bread dough with crème fraîche, onions and lardons). Toppings include magret de canard seasoned with oranges and cabbage or salmon with roasted mango.

Getting there

Nearest airport is Strasbourg (www.strasbourg.aeroport.fr). TGV from Paris to Colmar (2h50).

When to go

Winter provides excellent skiing. The summer months bring sun and crowds, but they can be avoided by lacing up hiking boots and heading into the regional parks.

8. Volcans d’Auvergne

The Volcans d’Auvergne is France’s largest Parc Naturel Régional. If you like Scotland, you’ll love this: vast swathes of raw countryside bursting in summer with butterflies and rare plants, and covered in winter with a picturesque veil of snow.

Where to sleep

Auberge Ayjean (La Gandilhon, Lavigerie, Cantal, www.auberge-puy-mary.com). The last house before you reach the Col du Pas de Peyrol is a beautifully converted barn with six spacious rooms. The chef serves up wonderful cuisine de terroir, and wine buffs are in heaven browsing the 500-plus bottles in the walk-in cave.

Where to eat and drink

Auberge de la Golmotte (Le Barbier, Monts-Dore, www.aubergelagolmotte.com) is a charming roadside auberge with a rustic finish inside and fresh fish swimming in a trough outside. Each day chef Michel Longuet catches them with his bare hands to cook up for his clients.

Getting there

Nearest airports are Limoges (www.aeroportlimoges.com) or Rodez. Both are about a two-hour drive from the parc. TGV from Paris (3hrs).

When to go

Year-round, with the exception of November and early December when most hotels and restaurants close. Between July 1 and September 20 2009, the region is home to the ‘Recontre Arts Nature’ land art festival.

Coast

9. The Normandy Coast

Beloved of the impressionists, blessed with gorgeous coastal scenery and a timeless rural patchwork further inland, the upper swathe of Normandy is an ideal short break destination, just a Channel hop from the UK. The D-Day beaches and Bayeux tapestry are just a few of its many historic attractions, and famous ciders and cheeses keep gastronomes happy.

Where to sleep

La Ferme St-Siméon (rue Marais, www.fermesaintsimeon.fr), located a short drive outside the postcard-pretty port of Honfleur, is a four-star auberge that was a favourite haunt of the impressionists. It has lovely sea-view terraces, a good restaurant and its own park.

Where to eat and drink

Sa.Qua.Na (22 pl Hamelin, Honfleur, www.alexandre-bourdas.com). Chef Alexandre Bourdas has brought his experience of life in Japan to bear on local fish cuisine. The dining room is sober and elegant, and the food blends East and West: poached lobster scented with lime, or a ginger-tinged caramel flan made with azuki beans.

Getting there

Regular flights from Brighton to Deauville airport (www.deauville.aeroport.fr). TGV from Paris to Rouen (1h20) (www.rouen.aeroport.fr).

When to go

Normandy has a very similar climate to that of southern England. June and September are the most comfortable months; July and August are hotter, with the biggest crowds in August.

10. Northern Corsica

Like an unruly relative, Corsica broods stubbornly a few hours off the French coast. Centuries of strife and emigration have left it gloriously underpopulated, so its pristine scenery remains unspoilt and there’s always plenty of sunbathing space on Northern Corsica’s 30 or so beaches, ranging from the chichi in Saint-Florent to the hauntingly picturesque in the Désert des Agriates, a 15,000-hectare Unesco World Heritage site.

Where to sleep

Camping de la Plage (Algajola Aregno Plage, www.camping-de-la-plage-en-balagne.com), a beachside campsite with its own train platform, from which you can rattle all the way along the coast to Calvi or Bastia. Sleeping options range from pitches with a spotless stack of showers and loos from as little as €10 per person to wooden chalets and studios, each with a patio, kitchen and private bathroom, or top of the range air-conditioned Tonga and Morea beach huts.

Where to eat and drink

Le Matahari (10km east of Calvi Plage de l’Arinella, www.lematahari.com), a tropical dream of a beach bar right on the white sands of Plage de l’Arinella. Dig your toes into the sand while dining on Tahitian coconut and shrimp curry or calamari tempura. Inside, the South-East Asian decor matches the cuisine, centred around a wooden sculpted Buddha. Come late afternoon, Calvi’s citadel is silhouetted across the bay.

Getting there

Bastia Poretta airport (www.bastia.aeroport.fr) is 20km out of town. Corsica Ferries (www.corsica-ferries.co.uk) and SNCM (www.sncm.fr) operate ferries from Nice, Toulon and Marseille to Northern Corsica.

When to go

May, June and September are the best months to visit, with warm seas and hot sun. High summer can get hectic on the highways.

Further reading

Read about great things to do in Paris, plus hundreds of restaurant, hotel, museum and other reviews in our dedicated city site.

Find 30 inspirational France breaks in Time Out's 'France: perfect places to stay, eat & explore' coming soon to www.timeout.com/shop.

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