Beware of waiters darting out from the tourist joints on rue Saint-Saens and opt instead for Le Miramar (12 quai du Vieux Port, 04 91 91 10 40, www.bouillabaisse.com). For a cheaper feast, sample a pot of moules-frites at one of the outdoor cafés just behind the Vieux Port in Place Thiars or cours H d’Estienne d’Orves.

L’Epuisette (rue du Vallon des Auffes, 04 91 52 17 82), north of the old town on a craggy stone point, also offers superb seafood care of wonder-chef Guillaume Sourrieu. Inventive cuisine is the order of the day at Le Peron (56 corniche JK Kennedy, 04 91 52 15 22), one of Marseille’s most fashionable addresses; book ahead.

Pizza is another speciality, the result of centuries of Italian immigration. Vans equipped with wood-fired ovens can be found around the Vieux Port, or try PP Maulio (24 rue Sainte, 04 91 33 46 13). For eclectic food and hip environs, seek out La Fabrique (3 place Jules Verne, 04 91 91 10 40).

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