The newer, Mayfair branch of this seriously smart Fitzrovia Chinese restaurant and bar has stolen some of the limelight from its older sibling, which is now more than a decade old. But we still prefer this original outpost of what has now become an international chain. The long, thin strip of a bar behind the Chinese screens continues to look glamorous, and the cocktails are still superb. Premium spirits are used, the bar staff are well trained, and there is a definite homage to the East with drinks such as the Hakka (which contains regular saké) or the plum sour (with plum saké).
Don’t be put off by the frosty door staff, the dark descent to the basement or the bevy of hostesses asking about your booking (not actually required for the bar): it’s worth the perseverance, and has less of a press of people than many newer bars operating at this level.