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Please note, Hops & Glory is now closed. Time Out Editors, February 2018.
Given Britain’s propensity for cold weather, this wood-clad watering hole, flushed with amber lighting, makes for an inviting prospect. But even in warmer weeks, with its glass double-doors thrown open and beautiful brass fans spinning from the burgundy ceiling, there should be a pleasing breeze.
The offer of homely winter warmers – think beef dripping, chips and Welsh rarebit – would do for most evenings. Watch out for the crust on that rarebit though, mine was tough and difficult to chew.
The menu promises ‘British country-style cooking,’ which evidently means meat-centric mains, with grouse, beef and only one option for fish-fanciers or veggies. My wild bream fillet was great, the flesh tender beneath a crisped skin, its saltiness superbly complemented by sweet red peppers and a lumpy (in a good way) Cypriot potato mash.
It may be perched on the edge of busy Essex Road, but The Hops & Glory brings an enjoyable slice of country pub living to Zone One.