1707

The idea works well in principle: position a wine bar-restaurant in the downstairs deli heartland of Fortnum & Mason, lay on wine-friendly food and allow customers either to choose from a list showcasing house wines, or purchase from the wine department and pay £10 corkage. It works less well in practice.

The wood-walled room-within-a-room is stylish, but the food - other than deli goods (cheese, smoked salmon, cured meats) - is nothing special, or, in the case of our first two dishes from the short, snacky menu (grape and almond gazpacho, dressed crab) virtually non-existent.

A skewer of merguez sausage and rabbit was the only hot dish, and ours seemed to have been reheated judging by its dry exterior.

For £14, with just some green leaves and cardboardy toast triangles, this was poor.

The house red Burgundy wasn't great either, but it was at the cheerier price of £6.50, for 175ml: the smallest measure available by the glass.

Fortunately, the ten flights of three wines grouped by region or type come in 125ml measures - though even these total a half bottle (share!).

Customers seemed as likely to order Champagne or cocktails at the attractive central bar, and the punctilious staff better briefed to serve them.