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You’ll get a very Belgravian view of the good life here: top-quality beef, plush surroundings, cigars, and wine and whisky lists that make the eyes pop. Boisdale is clearly doing something right, as the place was packed for lunch. It occupies an entire house, and offers five places to eat and drink – six if you count the private dining room – including a ‘cigar terrace’ that beats the smoking ban in style. The two bars are the least expensive places: either the pub-style Back bar or the clubby Macdonald bar. Both offer simpler food, with meals costing around half those of the main restaurant. Seafood and beef are the stars. We stuck with burgers (both made from great Aberdeen Angus beef and both cooked correctly to order) and a shared side of excellent thick-cut chips. Marine life features in various guises including sandwiches and small plates of salmon, herring, oysters and crab. Boisdale was buzzy yet fairly sedate during our lunch. At night, it might get more boisterous as locals let down their hair, helped by those single malts. The outstanding wine list is surprisingly affordable, with house selections starting at under £20. Jazz musicians play five nights a week.