Abbeville Kitchen
Abbeville Kitchen
© Ming Tang-Evans
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
This Clapham newcomer is so on-trend, in looks, menu and vibe, it wouldn’t be out of place in the middle of Soho. A few pavement tables and a fold-back frontage give way to a long thin room furnished in a retro-distressed manner, all bare light bulbs, knackered dining chairs and fabric-lined walls. Ex-school stools are lined up next to the bar; at the rear is the (slightly whiffy) open kitchen. Bare tables, Duralex glasses and paper napkins set the casual tone, as do the friendly but efficient staff (all good-looking young men on our visit).
Menu descriptions are terse – ‘razor clams, cucumber, tomatoes and lettuce’, ‘Hereford veal, soft polenta and parmesan’ – with no hint of cooking techniques. Many diners (a varied lot on our visit, in age and fashionability) were sharing a series of smaller plates, rather than having the standard starter/main; there are also a few dishes designed for two.
All our food was tremendous, from excellent bread to a simple bowl of boiled red potatoes with minty butter to buttermilk pudding (similar to panna cotta) with gooseberries and toasted hazelnuts. The aformentioned veal and polenta was exquisite comfort food, the meat falling-off-the-bone tender, with an intense gravy and a large mound of cheesy polenta. The wine list is thoughtfully compiled and fairly priced; there are sherries, Breton cider and Clapham Pale Ale, too.
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