The view here, of the looming dome of St Paul’s, must be among the most imposing in London. We hope it’s appreciated by the City dudes at whom Barbecoa – a joint venture between Jamie Oliver and American barbecue maestro Adam Perry Lang – is clearly aimed. This is meat territory: steaks, roasts, pit barbecue. The brunch menu, available at weekends and bank holidays, gives a full flavour of the restaurant’s considerable abilities. Tender shredded short-ribs came in a massive portion with heavenly chipotle salsa. A porchetta BLT cut the salty richness of the pork with fine acidity from cranberry salsa. Baked beans were superbly seasoned and carefully cooked. The big complaint is that some food is unnecessarily (verging on unpleasantly) greasy. That BLT, already rich from fatty porchetta, came on sourdough bread that had been oiled before grilling. The ribs sat on a naan so greasy from the meat we couldn’t contemplate eating it. These are solvable problems, but the kitchen had better solve them. Service was polished and friendly. The well-chosen wine list is for rich people (little below £35). The cocktails are unusual, and ours was well executed. Try to avoid the excessive richness, and you’ll have a great time.