Bonds (CLOSED)

It’s a pleasure walking past the grand buildings around Bank station. Before heading into this ground-floor restaurant in the Threadneedle Hotel, pop into the foyer to take a look at the beautiful stained-glass dome.

The dining room is stately, with soaring columns, elegant walnut panelling and oak flooring, but it doesn’t seem overly ornate thanks to clever use of contemporary lighting and furnishings that soften the space. You don’t need to raid the gold reserves at the Bank of England to eat here; prices are fair for the location, especially the set menus (these can vary – check the website for the latest offers). The hefty wine list also caters for different budgets. Service is discreet and willing.

Mackerel made an unexciting start to a meal; it could have done with less time on the grill, but its oily nature was neatly foiled by a tomato fondue and splashes of balsamic vinegar. Chef Stephen Smith majors in British ingredients, so we couldn’t resist a pork cutlet with potato and wild garlic mash, apple and crispy sage – and were well rewarded. Also delightful was sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice-cream.

Mobile phone signals can be intermittent in parts of the room, making Bonds a cheerful means of leaving daily stresses behind.