Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
With a winning combination of a Threadneedle location, majestic Victorian bank architecture and hotel convenience, it’s little wonder that Bonds finds favour with City folk throughout the day: from crack-of-dawn breakfast, via cocktails and tapas ‘during and after work’, to weekday lunch and dinner, with afternoon tea affording leisurely meetings under the magnificent stained-glass atrium.
No surprise either that the dining area is discreet, correct and hushed (even on a bright, hot summer’s day the cool interior was chiaroscuro save for the occasional red glow), yet spacious, comfortable and opulent in its expanse of dark-wood flooring and wall panelling.
What is unexpectedly welcome is the moderate pricing of the set menu for what is undoubtedly high-end dining. Remarkably, it’s even possible to assemble a vegetarian selection from the carte at similar cost (the set meals don’t always feature meat-free dishes). And while the enticing wine list is pre-austerity in its reach, the least expensive glasses are perfectly pleasing.
The summer menu dishes produced by chef Stephen Smith proved delightful: opulent in their use of luxury ingredients (cream, truffles) and design-conscious plating, yet focused in their clarity, freshness and transformation of the humble (ham hock, carrots). An emphasis on seasonality, Britishness and sustainability shows an apt and modern sensibility. Inventiveness can lead to an occasional slip – the sweetness of candied carrot overrode all else in an otherwise earthy dish of truffled tortellini – but a happy absence of staidness seals the deal.
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