Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Tue Sep 25 2012
To judge by this venue’s size and the elaborate Russell Sage interiors – a mash-up of art deco and industrial – Gordon Ramsay can’t be doing too badly. Bread Street Kitchen is located across the One New Change hallway from Barbecoa, Jamie Oliver’s barbecue joint with Adam Perry Lang. Entering the cavernous upstairs bistro is sheer fun, like stepping out of the bowels of a stadium into the stands. Leather banquettes sweep through the black and white tiled space, which must be half the length of a football pitch. Starters sent out from the extraordinarily long open kitchen were flawless. Perfect piccalilli and mayonnaise-moistened strands of beef brisket were served with caraway seed-dotted crisp bread. A smoothie-textured gazpacho came enriched with basil oil; the white crab meat in its depths was simply an additional treat. Mains of roasted cod and short-rib burger were good (the chips excellent), but a slight step down. Attracting custom to the City on a Sunday is hard, but the brunch menu offers good budget-conscious options. Wine is available by the carafe: a nice touch.
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