No prize for guessing what the unique selling point of this restaurant is – it’s all in the name. The street-level section of the room is given over to an upmarket butcher shop-cum-deli, and the raised mezzanine dining area is where you head to enjoy the meat-counter cuts. This is the kind of appealing formula that demands rolling out into a fully fledged chain. As it is, Butcher & Grill is down to just this branch, the Wimbledon outpost having closed in 2012.
A no-nonsense menu features burgers, ribs, chops and steak (though no offal), with beef and lamb sourced from Highfields Farm in East Sussex. Our steak was nicely medium rare, full flavoured and complemented by its rich red wine sauce (it can also be customised with salsa, roquefort butter, béarnaise or green peppercorn sauce). Similarly, barbecue baby pork back ribs were melt-in-the-mouth pleasurable, doused with a dressing that was bright and sweet without overpowering the tender meat. Pay heed to the name, however, and stick with the meat options. A tuna steak atop a niçoise salad was disappointing: dull and expensive.
Service too was poor on our visit, with staff inattentive and forgetful, despite an almost empty dining room.