Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
The flagship store is unmissable, thanks to its prime two-floor corner location, and boy is it popular. If the place is full, staff will take note of your requirements and leave you to browse in the next-door deli, collecting you when a table is ready. Best bets are the semi-circular banquettes around the edge; the central tables and chairs seemed cramped with no obvious place for coats and umbrellas, and the stylish aluminium ceiling lamps appear ominously close on a warm night.
The atmosphere is buzzy and diners – a mix of theatre-goers, shoppers and out-of-towners – seemed happy with the experience. As were we – once seated, we felt under no pressure to move on, in spite of the bustle.
The menu is an easy-going mix of pastas, salads, vegetarian options and assorted classics (fritto misto, grilled calf’s liver). Our dishes scored well: perfectly cooked seabass (fried with tomato salsa and sautéed potatoes), al dente spaghetti (vongole) and chunky fishcakes. In fact, there’s little to criticise here, though some prices are a little keen. In short – a winning formula, and not as soulless as many chains. Forza!
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